View From My Garden!

It's time!

2010-05-13T10:14:00.000-07:00

The danger of a sneaky frost should be over by now so it's full steam ahead for planting anything in your garden. Even the White House has a garden well under way!

A garden poem for morning!

2010-04-23T07:28:00.000-07:00

Mid springtime skies of blue delight,

With wispy clouds of cotton light.

Sweet silky air against my cheek,

On garden walk…I take first peek.

I meet the fragrance of the day,

With smiles that come and dare to stay.

Amusing birds and butterfly,

Caressing flowers, then, flutter by.

Watching morning’s diamond dew,

The bees that gather quickly flew,

From stem to bloom and back again,

Gathering nectar in nature’s plan.

So with peaceful loving grace,

I walk among the Queen Anne’s lace

Knowing angels guided me.

To garden paths with giggling glee.

This journey is the best so far,

When guided by bright morning star.

Perhaps I’ll run through sprinklers cool.

Eat ice cream that would make you drool.

Soon summer’s choir will sing and play.

Before the ice and snow can stay.

Enjoy the day and join me now,

While gardens takes a joyous bow.

Come with me to pull the weeds,

Please leave the plants that shed their seeds.

You who walk amongst my garden,

Share leisure’s sudden loving pardon…

Feel free to come and go and take

Bouquets to share, a squash to bake.

For in my garden’s splendid reaping,

Is love to give and love for keeping.

Growing peonies!

2010-04-21T08:11:00.000-07:00

Of all the favorite spring blooms, nothing is so wonderful as peonies bursting into color from the beautiful perfectly round buds amidst the lacy leaves. Last spring while dog sitting for the Idaho kids, their driveway was lined with peonies and they showed off for me, laden with blossoms that sent their fragrance all the way up to the house. I could not resist bringing a bouquet into the house and then getting out my paints. One thing always leads to another!

Peonies are perennial favorites in the flower garden. Few herbaceous plants can rival them for floral display and foliage. Their exquisite, large blossoms, often fragrant, make excellent cut flowers and the foliage provides a background for annuals or other perennials. Two types of peonies are generally grown in the home landscape, Paeonia spp. hybrids (garden peony) and Paeonia suffruticosa (tree peony).

Peonies grow from two to four feet in height. Support is often required for tall, double hybrids. Peonies thrive in sunny locations and well-drained soils, tolerating a wide range of soil types. Best growth is in soil with a pH range of 6.5 to 7.5, deep and rich in organic matter. They are hardy from zone 8 to zone 2, with some exceptions.

Planting, transplanting and dividing peonies are best done in early fall but may be done in spring as soon as soils are workable. Each plant requires an area about three feet in diameter. Dig a generous hole, large enough to accommodate the roots and incorporate aged organic matter in the bottom. Place the peony in the prepared hole so that the eyes (small, red-colored buds) are one to two inches below the soil's surface. Backfill and water well.

Peonies may be left undisturbed for many years. A decline in flower production usually indicates overcrowding and the need for division. Carefully lift the clump and wash away the soil to expose the eyes. Using a clean, sharp tool, divide the clump into sections, each with three to five eyes and good roots. Replant immediately.

SPRING CARE: Start cultivation early. Feed Fertilizer soon after growth starts, using 1 rounded tablespoonful around each plant and cultivating it into the soil. The feeding is important since the peony plant makes a very rapid early growth and needs this complete feeding to produce foliage and blooms. For larger blooms, disbud the smaller buds on the plant, allowing only the terminal bud to develop. For quantity of flowers and a longer flowering season, leave some of the lateral buds. From white, creamy pink, raspberry to deep maroon, peonies come in many colors.

Transplanting seedlings from flats to peat pots.

2010-04-14T08:57:00.000-07:00

One of the most common mistakes made is leaving the seedlings in the seed flat too long. The ideal time to transplant young seedlings to individual pots is when they are small and there is little danger from setback. This is usually about the time the first true leaves appear above or between the cotyledon leaves (the cotyledons or seed leaves are the first leaves the seedling produces). Don’t let plants get hard and stunted or tall and leggy. To transplant, carefully dig up the small plants with a knife or wooden plant label. Let the group of seedlings fall apart and pick out individual plants. Gently ease them apart in small groups which will make it easier to separate individual plants. Avoid tearing roots in the process. Handle small seedlings by their leaves, not their delicate stems. Punch a hole in the medium into which the seedling will be planted. Make it deep enough so the seedling can be put at the same depth it was growing in the seed flat. Small plants or slow growers should be placed 1 inch apart and rapid-growing, large seedlings about 2 inches apart. After planting, firm the soil and water gently. Keep newly transplanted seedlings in the shade for a few days, or place them under fluorescent lights. Keep them away from direct heat sources. Continue watering and fertilizing as in the seed flats. Most plants transplant well and can be started indoors, but a few plants are difficult to transplant. These are generally directly seeded outdoors or sown directly into individual containers indoors. Examples include zinnias and cucurbits, such as melons and squash.

There are many types of containers available commercially. Those made out of pressed peat can be purchased in varying sizes. Individual pots or strips of connected pots fit closely together, are inexpensive, and can be planted directly in the garden. When setting out plants grown in peat pots, be sure to cover the pot completely. If the top edge of the peat pot extends above the soil level, it may act as a wick, and draw water away from the soil in the pot. To avoid this, tear off the top lip of the pot and then plant flush with the soil level.

Hardening Plants
Hardening is the process of altering the quality of plant growth to withstand the change in environmental conditions which occurs when plants are transferred from a greenhouse or home to the garden. A severe check in growth may occur if plants produced in the home are planted outdoors without a transition period. Hardening is most critical with early crops, when adverse climatic conditions can be expected. Hardening can be accomplished by gradually lowering temperatures and relative humidity and reducing water. This procedure results in an accumulation of carbohydrates and a thickening of cell walls. A change from a soft, succulent type of growth to a firmer, harder type is desired.

This process should be started at least 2 weeks before planting in the garden. If possible, plants should be moved to a 45o to 50oF temperature indoors or outdoors in a shady location. A cold frame is excellent for this purpose. When put outdoors, plants should be shaded, then gradually moved into sunlight. Each day, gradually increase the length of exposure. Don’t put tender seedlings outdoors on windy days or when temperatures are below 45oF. Reduce the frequency of watering to slow growth, but don’t allow plants to wilt. Even cold-hardy plants will be hurt if exposed to freezing temperatures before they are hardened. After proper hardening, however, they can be planted outdoors and light frosts will not damage them. The hardening process is intended to slow plant growth. If carried to the extreme of actually stopping plant growth, significant damage can be done to certain crops. For example, cauliflower will make thumb size heads and fail to develop further if hardened too severely. Cucumbers and melons will stop growth if hardened.

Early Spring bloomers!

2010-04-13T09:10:00.000-07:00

By now your gardening efforts are blooming.....baskets of gold, pansies, tulips, daffodils, candytuft, anemonies, forsythia....and soon iris, lilacs and spirea. Spring has sprung! Enjoy!

Time to plant peas!

2010-04-12T08:10:00.000-07:00

Among the cool weather things to plant early, peas are on the list.

Choose your type(s). There are three: English or garden peas (only the seeds are eaten), Chinese or snow peas (picked when the pods have reached full size but the seeds are still small and eaten pod and all), and snap peas (picked when both pod and seeds are mature; both are edible).
Sow peas directly in the garden as soon as the soil can be worked, usually about five weeks before the last expected frost. Because the seeds germinate so readily, and because you'll want to make successive plantings, there's no real advantage to buying started plants.
Plant the seeds an inch deep, 3 to 4 inches apart, in rows about 3 feet apart. Install supports for peas - even dwarf varieties - when you plant them, and start guiding the vines upward as soon as they're long enough to climb.
Plant a different, heat-resistant variety a few weeks after the first sowing. Then 8 to 10 weeks before the first frost date, plant a crop in another bed for an early autumn harvest.
Make sure young plants get about 1/2 inch of water a week (1 inch in very sandy soil). When plants begin to flower, they need an inch per week regardless of soil.
Help ensure heavy yields by feeding liquid seaweed or compost tea twice during the growing season.
Expect peas to be ready for picking about three weeks after the plants begin to flower.

Small spaces can yield garden produce!

2010-04-09T08:48:00.000-07:00

Just because you don't have a huge garden space or live in a city, it doesn't mean you cannot grow healthy produce for your use. A creative gardener can use a roof top, large containers including garbage cans, or an old rain gutter to plant in.

Vegetable container gardening can bring joy and bounty. The simple pleasure of biting into a tomato still warm from the sun, picked and eaten on the spot, is almost unbeatable. You can grow just about any vegetable in a container garden and you can also save serious bucks by growing your own vegetable container gardens.

However, vegetable container gardening can be a frustrating and expensive endeavor if your plants don't thrive and produce. The following list of basic tips apply to most vegetables, and will help you and your plants get off to a good start.

Sun - Most vegetables need full sun – that means at least six hours of direct sunlight a day. It is easy to overestimate how much sun an area really gets, so either take out your watch and time how long the sun hits the spot where you want to put your vegetable container garden.

Water – Growing vegetables need water - lots of it. However, you don't want to drown your plants. The goal is to keep your soil moist but not wet. To figure out if your plants need water, stick your finger down into the soil, about an inch, or up to your first knuckle. If the soil feels dry, add water, and if you're not sure, wait and check later in the day. At the height of summer, you probably will have to water at least once, sometimes twice, a day. Proper watering may be the single most important and hardest part of vegetable container gardening. A water gauge that goes down to the roots is a good $6 investment.

Heat – If you live in a really hot zone you may have to shade your plants in the middle of the day in order not to fry them. Also, it's best not to use metal containers or dark colored plastics or ceramics, because they can heat up and cook your plant's roots. On the flip side, many vegetables don’t like cold soil, so make sure not to put your vegetable container gardens outside full-time, until you know the temperatures are warm enough. For many plants the soil needs to be at least 60°F. Using a meat thermometer is a good way to find out the temperature of your soil. Always make sure to harden off your plants before you put them outside. That means introduce them gradually to the elements.

Soil - Quality potting soil is really important for vegetables. Don't use soil from your garden, because it will compact in your container and won't drain water properly. Also, one of the reasons to garden in containers is so you won't have to deal with weeds. Chances are pretty good that if you use garden soil, you will be importing weeds into your container. I use organic potting soil because studies have shown that there are many benefits to growing organically, including better taste and a higher percentage of antioxidents and phytochemicals.

Fertilizer - Plants need food to thrive, and their food is fertilizer. If your soil doesn’t have fertilizer already mixed in, you’ll want to add fertilizer. I use an organic granular fertilizer and mix it into my containers from top to bottom. Every couple of weeks I will add diluted liquid fish emulsion or liquid seaweed to give them the nutrition they need. Another great way to add fertilizer during the growing season is to make or buy compost tea.

Drainage - Drainage is key to keep plants from drowning. You want your pot or container to let excess water out of the bottom, so your plants won't sit in water or soggy soil. Make sure your container has one large hole or several smaller ones. You can usually drill holes if the drainage is insufficient. To protect a deck under the pot...put a saucer under the pot to catch the drainage.

Containers – Choosing a container can be daunting. You can use almost anything for a garden planter as long as it is big enough and has good drainage. Keep in mind though, that the larger your container, the easier it will be to maintain. The more soil a container can hold the more moisture it will retain. I don’t bother with containers that are smaller than 12” and I am much happier if they are at least 18”. Bigger, really is better here.

I particularly love wooden containers for growing vegetables. I like the way they look and you can get really good-sized containers that aren’t too expensive, or you can make your own. Cedar will last just about as long as your garden does. Plastic or glazed ceramic containers are fine too. You can even use terracotta, but it is harder to keep your plants moist, because the clay tends to suck the water out of the soil. To help solve this problem, put a dish under your ceramic pot and fill it with water.

Seeds or Seedlings – You can start your veggies from seed or buy seedlings. There are some significant advantages and disadvantages to each. Starting your own seeds is much less expensive than buying seedlings, after some start up costs. If you start your own seeds can grow hard to find varieties and can also grow your seedlings organically. However, starting seeds isn't for everyone. You absolutely cannot let them dry out or they're toast. Conversely, if you give them too much water, they keel over dead. Check out the blog on starting seeds.

Building a raised bed garden!

2010-04-08T08:39:00.000-07:00

Building the garden

If you're a beginner to the raise bed gardening world, laying out the garden in a rectangular pattern is the way to go. Rectangular gardens are easier to maintain and to work on. No matter which design you decide on, make sure to level the area first to make a flat base for starting the project. Other things to keep in mind when you're building a raised bed garden include:

Width and length. If your raised garden bed is accessible from both sides you can make it four feet wide. If the bed is accessible only from one side, limit the width to 3 feet. Most gardeners find it uncomfortable to reach farther than 3 feet to tend the bed. The garden can really be any length suitable to your landscape, but a good workable size is about 12 feet long.

Depth. Most plants need at least 6 to 12 inches of rooting zone, so the soil in the raised garden bed should be about 12 inches deep. Beds built higher may need retaining walls with foundations to keep the soil intact. The higher the raised garden, the less bending over for you.

Drainage. Place a few inches of small gravel in the bottom of each bed for good drainage.

Orientation. A north-south orientation is best for growing low growing crops, allowing direct sunlight to both sides of the beds. Beds that contain taller crops might do better on an east-west axis. When in doubt, just make sure the raised garden bed gets a minimum of 6 hours of sunlight a day and plants don't shade each other.

Soil composition. Fill the raised garden beds with a top soil or a good soil mix. Add compost and mix it in. Some sand can be added if desired for drainage purposes. After you plant your seeds, add about three to four inches of mulch. The mulch will break down over time and add nutrients to the soil and keep it loose. Mulch will also help conserve water and cool roots of the plants. You won't have to worry about weed problems if you mulch well.

Using a frame

Although most raised bed gardens are framed, they really don't have to be. Some gardeners simply mound up soil, to make planting flowers or vegetables within area landscaping easier. However, using a frame will help keep the soil in place during heavy rains and keep the raised bed garden looking neat. You can use a variety of materials, so long as whatever you choose is sturdy and long lasting. Here are some framing ideas:

Wood. Avoid using pre-treated lumber for bed frames of vegetable gardens. Chemicals can leach out and injure plants. Use pressure-treated lumber, or rot-resistant cedar or redwood.
Composite landscape timbers. Some landscape timbers are made to look like weathered wood. They are made from recycled plastic, weather well, are easy to install, and are long lasting.
Concrete block or stone. A little pricier than wood, but very long lasting, blocks or stones make excellent raised bed garden frames.

Easy access pathways

If you're building more than one raised garden bed, leave walkways in between each bed. When deciding on the width of the walkway, keep in mind that plants at the border of your garden will hang over the edge and that you may want to bring a wheel barrow or garden cart in. For foot traffic only, 1-foot wide paths are usually big enough. Also, put something down on the walkway to keep it from getting muddy. You'll need easy access to those beautiful vegetables and flowers you'll be growing!

Amanda and Josh's New House Complete With Raised Beds!

2010-04-07T07:49:00.000-07:00

Follow along this summer as Amanda and Josh learn how to garden in these wonderful raised beds already complete with drip irrigation system. Now all they need is Grandpa Steve's handiwork in the form of a potting bench and a load of manure!

Raised Bed Gardening!

2010-04-07T07:40:00.000-07:00

A popular vegetable garden layout which many home gardeners choose is the raised garden bed. Raised beds are versatile, easy to use, and have many advantages over traditional gardening. For example, a raised bed allows you to easily control your soil mixtures so that you always have the proper soil for your plants. As you can customize the soil mixtures in your raised beds, you can greatly improve soil drainage for your plants. Many gardeners build raised beds just for this reason. Raising your garden bed even eight inches above the existing ground level can greatly improve drainage. I would suggest 12 inches however.

While one of the most obvious benefits to gardening with raised beds is their adjustable height, raised beds also have numerous other benefits. For example, because raised beds are designed so that you don’t have to actually step into your raised beds for maintenance, you can produce larger quantities of fruits in vegetables in the same amount space that you’d use in a traditional garden plot.

Garden maintenance is also easy with raised beds. You can quickly and easily remove weeds and control pests in your raised beds. If you use black plastic mulch for weed control, you will use significantly less plastic for your raised beds that in a traditional garden. Moreover, rodents and other pests that like to eat your veggies in a regular garden bed will have difficulty reaching plants in raised beds. Crop rotation is also relatively painless in raised beds, which can help prevent problems with diseases that can form in the soil over time.

Watering is also easy and more efficient, as you irrigate only where plants are growing and not the walking spaces between your garden rows. Additionally, you can grow your plants closer together, which helps to shade the soil and reduces evaporation. A drip irrigation system is ideal and efficient.

You can also quickly change soil and plants in your raised beds. For example, using a raised bed makes it very easy to plant annuals in the summer and replace them with bulbs later in the growing season. If you grow vegetables or fruits, raised beds can greatly increase the growing season. Soil actually heats up quicker in raised beds and the addition of a removable plastic frame transforms your raised bed into an instant cold frame.

Raised beds can also make gardening more creative, as you can use many different kinds of materials to build you beds including beautiful hardwoods, bricks, stones, and recycled materials such as railroad ties.

Vegetables are normally planted closer together than in the row vegetable garden layout making this is an ideal choice if you only have space for a small vegetable garden. These beds need to be narrow enough so that you do not need to tread on your beds to plant, weed or harvest your veggies. A good width would be 3 to 4 feet, (.9 - 1.2 metres) if you can get at the bed from both sides. You can build raised beds out of recycled wood, bricks, concrete blocks, stones or just pile up the soil on top of the ground. A good depth would be about 8-12 inches (20-30 cm).

A raised bed will enable the soil to warm quicker so you can plant earlier in the season. It will also improve drainage. Even if you have very poor soil or even a concrete slab (make sure you have a soil depth of 12 inches or 30cm for this situation), a raised bed will allow you transform a barren patch into a bountiful harvest. A raised bed also alleviates the problem of tree roots competing with your veggies for nutrients and water but make sure that any tree will not cast too much shade on the garden beds.

More potatoes!

2010-04-06T08:17:00.000-07:00

Potato Varieties

There are many different choices for the potato gardener, limited only by personal preference. Listed below are the most common varieties.

Reds — This kind of potato has reddish skin, white flesh and a lower starch content. They are especially good for roasting. Red varieties are more susceptible to scab, as their skin is generally thinner and they have shallower eyes than brown-skinned potatoes. However, the issue is not serious enough to be a deterrent to planting red potatoes.

Whites — The most common type of potatoes found on grocery store shelves, white potatoes have pale skin and white flesh. They are good all-purpose potatoes, suitable for just about any dish.

Yellow — Varieties of yellow potato include Yukon Gold. Yellow potatoes have yellow flesh and are notably good for baking and frying.

Russet — The classic baking potato, russets have a high starch content (which also makes it great for mashing) and a skin that is a bit thicker and darker than other white potato varieties.

Many varieties, like fingerling potatoes aren't found in the grocery store but are plentiful in season at Farmer's markets.

Variety	Maturing	Comments
Yukon Gold	Early to Mid season	Large, yellow-fleshed variety. They are excellent baked, boiled, or mashed. These potatos store well.
Superior	Mid season	Good baked, boiled, or mashed. Resistant to potato scab.
Red Pontiac	Late maturing	High yields, large round potatoes, easy to grow, stores well.
Kennebec	Late maturing	Excellent producer, large potatoes, great for baking or frying, stores well.
Russet Norkotah	Late maturing	Excellent baking potato, excellent producer, large potatoes.
White Rose	Early to Mid season	Good producer, good for cooking, doesn't store well.
Russet	Mid season	Excellent producer, excellent baking potato, large potatoes, excellent for storage.
Norland	Early maturing	Red skin, white flesh, excellent when boiled, fried, or mashed, stores well.

Planting potatoes: Choose a sunny spot with well draining, loose soil, so that the roots and tubers can develop. . Trench Method: A traditional potato planting method involves digging a shallow trench, about 6" deep and placing the seed potatoes in the trench, eyes facing up. You then cover the potatoes with a couple of inches of soil. As the potato plant grows, soil is continually hilled up along the sides of the plants. This keeps the soil around the developing tubers loose and keeps the surface tubers from being exposed to sunlight, which will turn them green and somewhat toxic. Hill soil whenever the plants reach about 4-6" in height. You can stop hilling when the plants begin to flower.

Maintenance: Potatoes don’t like a particularly rich soil. If you have some organic matter and the pH is good, the potatoes should be happy. What they do rely on is a steady water supply. Water them at least and inch a week.

HARVESTING - New young potatoes are harvested when peas are ripe or as the potato plants begin to flower. For storage of full sized potatoes harvest them when the vines turn yellow or have died-back.

STORAGE - Keep them in the dark, in a spot where temperatures are about 40 degrees.

Growing potatoes!

2010-04-05T07:02:00.000-07:00

Mom and Dad were master gardeners and Good Friday was always the time to plant potatoes in the garden. The peas were planted about the same time so one of the first dishes made from the harvest from the garden was creamed potatoes and peas.

Growing Potatoes
Potatoes require full sun to grow. Because they are aggressively rooting plants, they will produce the best crop when planted in a light, loose, well-drained but moisture retentive loam. Potatoes prefer a slightly acid soil with a ph of 5.8 - 6.5 Fortunately, however, Potatoes are very adaptable and will usually produce a respectable crop, even when the soil conditions are less than perfect. Potatoes should be rotated on a 3-year program. This means, you need 3-suitable sites if you want to grow Potatoes every year.

Potatoes may be planted as soon as the ground can be worked in the early spring, but you must use good judgment. Potato plants will not begin to grow until the soil temperature has reached 45 degrees F. The soil should be evenly moist, but not wet or soggy. If the soil is water logged when you dig, not only will you risk "caking" the soil, your seed Potatoes will probably rot before they even get started. Potatoes can tolerate a light frost, but you should provide some frost-protection for the plants when they are young. This can be a loose covering of straw, or a temporary plastic tent. (Be sure to remove or ventilate the plastic on sunny days!) If you plan to store Potatoes through the winter, you can plant a second crop as late as June 15. Be sure to only use only certified seed Potatoes! Potatoes are susceptible to several serious diseases. Even though the Potatoes you saved from the previous year, or the Potatos you see in the supermarket may appear healthy, they should not be used for your seed. Certified seed Potatoes are disease free, and have been selected to give you the best results with the highest yields. Certified seed Potatoes are available at most quality nurseries and garden centers. There are several different varieties of Potatoes to choose from, each with it's own characteristics and qualities.

A week or two before your planned potato planting date, set your seed Potatoes somewhere where they will be exposed to some warmth (between 60 and 70 degrees F.) and lots of light. This will induce them to begin sprouting. A day or two before planting, use a sharp, clean knife to slice the larger seed Potatoes into "seeds". Each seed should be approximately 1 1/2-2inches square, and must contain at least 1 or 2 "eyes" or buds. Smaller Potatos may be planted whole. In the next day or so, your 'seed' will form a thick callous over the cuts, which will help to prevent it from rotting once planted. More tomorrow on planting in rows and hills!

Happy, happy Easter Lilly!

2010-04-02T08:23:00.001-07:00

Lillies in your garden are colorful, fragrant and easy to care for. You can plant your Easter lilly after it is finished blooming and the foilage turns yellow. Lilies provide an easy to grow, colorful addition to your garden and landscape. By choosing a combination of early, mid-season, and late-blooming cultivars, you can have lilies in flower from mid June through mid September. These hardy bulbs require only minimal care. Each has the capacity to grow, eventually, into an large cluster of flowering stems.


Enchantment, Asiatic Lilly

Here are some hardy lillies that do well even in a Northern climate.

Cultivars	Type	Color	Height in Feet	Time of Bloom
Enchantment	Asiatic	orange	2 - 3	June
Connecticut King	Asiatic	yellow	3 - 4	June
Corsica	Asiatic	pink	3	June/July
Crete	Asiatic	deep pink	3 - 4	June/July
Dawn Star	Asiatic	cream	2 - 3	July
Black Beauty	Oriental	dark red	5 - 6	July/August
Journey's End	Oriental	deep pink	4 - 5	August
Stargazer	Oriental	crimson-red	2 - 3	August
Yellow Ribbons	Oriental	white/yellow	3 - 5	August
Casa Blanca	Oriental	pure white	4 - 5	August/September

Lily bulbs may be planted in spring or in the fall, usually from mid-September through mid-October. If you find hardy lilies growing in containers, you may add them to your garden throughout the growing season. When buying locally, select firm, plump bulbs with roots attached. Plant them as soon as possible. Bulbs never go completely dormant so they must not dry out before planting. Plant mail order bulbs as soon as possible, also. For best effect, plant lilies in groups of three or five identical bulbs. Space them eight to twelve inches apart, keeping groups three to five feet apart, depending on the vigor and size of the lilies. Plant small lily bulbs two to four inches deep and large bulbs four to six inches deep, measuring from the top of the bulb. Divide and replant large clusters of bulbs every three years or so – or when it seems they are not blooming as well as originally.

Never plant lilies where standing water collects after heavy rainfall. Well-drained soil is an absolute must or the bulbs will rot. Add lots of organic matter to clay soil to create a raised area with improved drainage. Incorporate organic matter into light, sandy soil also, to help hold onto nutrients and prevent it from drying too rapidly. Before winter, mulch over newly planted bulbs with four to six inches of loose, weed-free compost, leaves, or wood chips. This delays soil freezing and allows roots to continue growing longer. Mulch also insulates the soil against fluctuating temperatures, delaying the emergence of frost-tender shoots in spring. After lillies are established they won't need much protection....just enjoy.

Garden Easter Baskets!

2010-03-31T07:52:00.000-07:00

Window ledge basket!

Sedum metal basket hanging on the gate!

Herb wagon on the deck!

From Southern Living....Plant an Easter Basket! I don't often use material that is borrowed, but this was too wonderful to resists. Thank you Southern Living and Charlie Thigpen.

Hop into gardening by nestling small, plant-filled containers in strategic locations throughout the landscape. To create a fun seasonal look, we gave this display an Easter theme, mixing foliage, flowers, eggs, and a small rabbit statuary.

Classic Wicker
We lined our traditional Easter baskets with burlap and filled them with soil. Then we placed plants inside. To make the wicker last longer, you can leave plants in their plastic pots and arrange them in the basket. Fill in the voids between containers with moss or burlap. Take the pots out when watering, so the baskets won't stay wet.

Durable Metal
A metal basket makes an excellent, long-lasting planter. This one needed drainage holes, so we drilled a few in the bottom before planting golden club moss and hostas. Golden club moss grows flat and covers the soil like a shimmering chartreuse blanket underneath the leafy hostas. This shade-loving mix provides a medley of foliage from spring till summer.

New Life for an Old Basket
A rusted, wire-framed hanging basket makes a great planter. We removed the chains and let it rest on the ground. Then we added a coco-fiber liner and filled it with potting soil. When choosing plants, be creative and try a shrub. We put a small boxwood in the center and tucked petunias around it. Once the boxwood outgrows the space, plant it in the yard. We used variegated ivy along the outside edge of the container.

Tasty Treats
Two of the baskets contain edible greenery. One is filled with creeping thyme and topped with a large ornamental egg. The thyme's fine texture makes a nice green nest for the oversize egg. The larger basket contains chartreuse leaf lettuce mixed with chives, which have spiky, hollow foliage. Chives produce beautiful pink spring blooms. For a decorative touch, eggshells can act as pots. Crack open real eggs, wash the shells, and fill them with small sprigs of thyme.

This season, let baskets decorate your landscape. It's a great time of year to garden, and plants are plentiful. So what are you waiting for? Plant one for yourself, and give one to a friend for a memorable spring treat.

Rita Babcock...gardener of the week!

2010-03-29T10:01:00.000-07:00

Bloom Where You're Planted!

2010-03-29T09:48:00.000-07:00

Since this is my Mom's favorite saying, I was happy to see this sign hanging in our friends garden! Her garden is full of raised beds, potting benches and tools in a big mailbox. And, she takes the time to explain how little chickens grow up to be big white chickens to little interested girls. Thanks Rita Babcock for your gardening inspiration!

2010-03-29T08:26:00.000-07:00

Best organic fertilizers....and info about poop!

2010-03-29T07:45:00.000-07:00

At some point in your gardening experience, you may want to use a fertilizer to give your plants an extra boost. Unfortunately, many gardeners rely on chemical fertilizers to grow their trees, grass, flowers, fruits, and vegetables. However, there is an increasing awareness that many of the chemicals we use in our yards can over the long run negatively affect the environment and the health of our loved ones, neighbors, and pets.

Thankfully, there are a number of healthy natural and organic fertilizers available that will help you grow a lush, green garden and lawn without the use of potentially harmful chemical fertilizers.

THE BASICS OF ORGANIC FERTILIZERS:

Like traditional fertilizers, organic fertilizers show their content with three bold numbers. These numbers represent three different compounds: Nitrogen, Phosphorous, and Potash, which we can also describe with the letters N-P-K. The three numbers listed on fertilizer labels correspond to the percentage of these materials found in the fertilizer.

In addition to other properties, Nitrogen helps plant foliage to grow strong. Phosphorous helps roots and flowers grow and develop. Potassium (Potash) is important for overall plant health.

What Are Organic Fertilizers?

Some gardeners don't believe the claims of fertilizers to be really organic.

Yet chemical fertilizers are made in factories by turning nitrogen gas into ammonia and treating rock phosphate with acid. The problems with chemical fertilizers have been:

rapid release of nutrients and possible unbalanced growth,

a salty environment which damages plants and soil,

gross waste and pollution.

BEFORE YOU APPLY ORGANIC FERTILIZERS:

One of the best ways to improve the health of your plants is by adding organic compost to your soil. Compost can help reduce the amount of fertilizer treatments your plants need. If you’re not composting organic garden waste and kitchen scraps now, you should start as soon as you can. The addition of compost to your garden soil will add nutrients, improve drainage, and help your plants’ immune systems.

MANURE

Manures and composted plant materials add organic matter, which helps soil retain moisture and structure which prevents compaction, and helps prevent nutrients from leaching away. They also balance extremes in soil pH.

Good poop, bad poop

What is good for the goose, is not always good for the gander. There are a few manures that should not be used, primarily those of meat eaters. According to Cornell University "Homeowners should not use any manure from dogs, cats, or other meat-eating animals, since there is risk of parasites or disease organisms that can be transmitted to humans."

The most common sources of manure are horses, cattle, goats, sheep, rabbits and poultry. Below is a guide showing how manures measure up, nutrient-wise. While all animal manures are good sources of organic matter and nutrients, it's impossible to make a precise analysis, mostly because bedding materials vary so much. For example, manure with straw or sawdust will have a different nitrogen composition than pure manure. But it's useful to know whether the manure you're using is rich or poor in a particular nutrient such as nitrogen.

Just like we need to eat to maintain our health, soil needs continual replenishment of its organic matter to decompose into humus. Humus helps create a rich, moisture-retaining soil and makes nutrients available to plants.

How common manures measure up

Manure	Chicken	Diary cow	Horse	Steer	Rabbit	Sheep
N-P-K	1.1 .80 .50	.25 .15 .25	.70 .30 .60	.70 .30 .40	2.4 1.4 .60	.70.30 .90

Sources: Rodale's All-New Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening, An Illustrated Guide to
Organic Gardening, by Sunset Publishing, and the Rodale Guide to Composting.

Chicken manure
Poultry manure (chicken in particular) is the richest animal manure in N-P-K. Chicken manure is considered "hot" and must be composted before adding it to the garden. Otherwise, it will burn any plants it comes in contact with.

Dairy (cow) manure
Dairy Manure may be the single most useful soil-builder around," says Ann Lovejoy, lifetime organic gardener and writer in Seattle, Washington. "Washed dairy manure from healthy cows is just about perfect for garden use; it can be used as a topdressing and for soil improvement," she adds. Dairy manure is preferable to steer manure, which has a higher salt and weed seed content. Though cow manure has low nutrient numbers, that's what makes it safe to use in unlimited quantities.

Horse manure
Horse manure is about half as rich as chicken manure, but richer in nitrogen than cow manure. And, like chicken droppings, it's considered "hot". Horse manure often contains a lot of weed seeds, which means it's a good idea to compost it using a hot composting method.

Steer manure
Steer manure is one of the old standbys, but it's not the most beloved because it often contains unwanted salts and weed seeds.

Rabbit manure
Rabbit manure is even higher in nitrogen than some poultry manures and it also contains a large amount of phosphorus--important for flower and fruit formation.

Sheep manure
Sheep manure is another "hot" manure. It is somewhat dry and very rich. Manure from sheep fed hay and grain will be more potent than manure from animals that live on pasture.

How to use manure

No matter what kind of manure you use, use it as a soil amendment, not a mulch. In other words, don't put raw manure directly on garden soils. Raw manure generally releases nitrogen compounds and ammonia which can burn plant roots, young plants and interfere with seed germination. In fact, it's recommended that all animal manure should be aged for at least 6 months. Many gardeners spread fresh manure in the fall and turn it in to the top 6 inches of soil a month before spring planting.

A better treatment is to hot-compost manure before applying it to the garden. Hot composting, where the pile reaches at least 150 degrees F) helps to reduce the probability of passing dangerous pathogens on to people who handle the manure or eat food grown with manure compost.

While the chance of contamination is slim, severe sickness and even death may occur if contaminated produce is eaten. To be safe, either compost your manure or apply it in the fall after harvest. Wash up after handling manure and don't forget to rinse the vegetables and fruit well before you eat them--always a good idea whether your use manure or not.

Spring is here with new little chicks!

2010-03-28T07:16:00.000-07:00

More early sping plantings for your garden!

2010-03-26T09:00:00.000-07:00

Rhubarb begins to peek up out of the ground very early on and grows quickly in the cool spring weather. My Mom used to make a killer rhubarb cake every spring. Rhubarb sauce with a little cinnamon and cream on top is delicious. And, there is nothing better than rhubarb strawberry pie.

Planting: Usually grown from purchased crowns (rhizomes and buds). You can divide existing rhubarb plants (root balls) or even start them from seed, although they might not grow true to color. When growing from seed, it can take 2 years before the plants are large enough to harvest. Any well drained, rich soil. Prefers a slightly alkaline soil - pH of 6.0 to 6.8. Since you’re growing it for the foliage and it has a sort season, you want a soil high in organic matter, to support quick spring growth. Care should be taken when preparing the rhubarb bed, since the plants will be there for quite awhile after.
Space rhubarb crowns every 3 - 4 feet in rows about 3 feet apart. If planted too closely, the plants will grow smaller and less productive. You can plant in a long trench, much like asparagus, or dig individual holes. Place the crown 2 inches below the surface of the soil. Firm the soil gently and water well.
Rhubarb likes regular water, although mature plants are quite drought resistant.
Remove flower stalks as soon as they appear. Flower stalks are rounder, thicker and taller than leaf stalks. If allowed to mature and flower, the leaf stalks will be thinner.
Rhubarb does not like competition from weeds. A 2-3 inch layer of mulch will suppress weeds as well as help conserve water.
Harvesting: As with most perennial crops, don’t harvest the first year. Allow the plant to hold onto its leaves and build its strength. A top dressing of manure will keep it going.
You can take a small harvest the second year. Harvest stalks that are at least 1" thick and leave the rest. During the 3rd year, you can harvest for about 1 month. After the 3rd year, you can harvest whenever there are stalks ready for picking. Plants can remain productive for 8 to 15 years, unless affected by pests or diseases.
To harvest, cut the stalks at the soil line or pull out individual stalks as needed. You can harvest the whole crop at the same time or harvest in succession over a 4-6 week period. Although the leaves are toxic, they can be used in the compost pile....the oxalic acid will dissipate in the composting process.
As the temperature warms, growth slows and may even go dormant, but will resume in fall as temperatures fall.
Dividing Rhubarb: To divide rhubarb, dig the root mass and divide the crown between buds or eyes, into pieces about 2" long, with roots attached. You can divide in spring or fall, but it’s easier in spring, when the plant is coming out of dormancy and growing new roots.
Winter Protection: Rhubarb enjoys needs a period of cold to remain productive. A layer of mulch over the bed, once the ground freezes, will protect the roots from drying out. Otherwise, the plants should be fine on their own.
Maintenance: Plants will need to be divided or trimmed every 4-5 years. You will notice the stalks getting thinner as the crown becomes overgrown and crowded. When this happens, either divide or Trim the crown to 4-5 buds.

Lettuce the perfect cool spring weather crop!

2010-03-25T08:28:00.000-07:00

Lettuce may take a little protection to get it going in the early spring, but, oh, it never tastes better than when it’s grown in the crisp spring air. Cool, wet springs are perfect lettuce growing weather. It won’t bolt and you’ll probably have time for 2-3 succession plantings.

Starting Lettuce

Lettuce is a cool season crop and consequently is best grown in either spring or fall.
However, lettuce likes a temperature around 70o to germinate, so early plantings should be started as plugs.
Lettuce seeds need light to germinate. Just barely cover the seed with soil.
After a couple of weeks check to see if the roots have branched out to the sides of the plug. If so, they are hardy enough to go in the ground.
Don’t let the seedlings get too large before placing them out.

Care & Feeding of Green Crops

If you have fertile soil, you shouldn’t need to feed lettuce plants, unless you plant the “cut and come again” varieties all summer. This is one crop where extra nitrogen can’t hurt, since all you want from the plant is leaf.
Well-rotted manure or compost is ideal.
The plants will need regular watering, as lettuce tends to have a shallow root system.
Don’t keep the area damp or use mulch or you will be inviting slugs.
A lettuce crop is ideal for the intensive gardening method which is getting a lot of attention lately, because it matures rapidly, can be planted quite closely and can be planted in succession if you choose seasonal varieties.
Lettuce can even be grown in containers or used as a decorative border.
If your lettuce looks like it’s about to bolt, pull it out of the ground, roots and all, and replant. This shock to its system will slow its growth. Keep well watered.

Harvesting

As soon as the heart has formed the lettuce plant is ready for cutting. Check for firmness by gently pressing down on the top of the heart area with the back of your hand. This is the safest way as squeezing may damage plant tissue and if the plant is not ready to pick some horrible diseases may enter, as discussed above.

If the plant is ready and left in the ground too long (5-7 days) the heart will start to grow upwards - a sure sign it is beginning to bolt. Cut them immediately for use or dig up and compost.

When cutting for use it is best to lift the whole plant, cut off the root and lower leaves, placing them on your compost heap - don`t leave on the bed to attract pests and diseases.

You should now be holding a delicious looking lettuce plant of some variety. This is the end game - after applying your knowledge of how to grow lettuce you can now go and enjoy with pride the very real fruits of your labor, there are not many thrills greater than this.

Asparagus...an early spring cool weather crop!

2010-03-24T15:45:00.000-07:00

There aren't many perennial vegetable crops, vegetables you can plant once and harvest for many years to come. Looking forward to the first tender, pencil sized spears of asparagus poking through in the garden is a rite of spring. If you thought you didn’t like asparagus, you haven’t tried it freshly picked. Asparagus is one of the few perennial vegetable crops. The shoots are picked as young spears in the spring. Later in the season the foliage matures into an airy, fern-like cloud which changes to a golden color in the fall. Because asparagus takes up a permanent place in the garden, but can be an attractive plant, many people with space imitations use asparagus as a border or hedge plant.

You can grow asparagus either from seeds or from crowns. Asparagus crowns are really just the base and roots of a one-year old plants. Most people find it easier to grow from crowns, which are readily available in the spring. Unlike many plants, the roots on asparagus crowns can withstand some air exposure and you will usually find them for sale loose. They should still look firm and fresh, not withered or mushy.

When and How to Plant Aspargus

In warmer climates crowns can be planted in the fall. Early spring is the preferred time for cooler climates, about 4 weeks before the last expected frost date. Crowns can handle some frost because they are below ground. Asparagus is usually planted in rows, since you are going to dig trenches to plant them in. Start with a tench that is about a foot deep and 1 ½ feet wide. Working some compost into the bottom of the trench will get your plans off to a good start. Then make small mounds, about 6 inches high, along the bottom of the trench about every 18 inches. Spread the roots of each crown over the mounds and fill in the trench until the crowns are covered with 2-3 inches of soil. As the plants begin to grow, you can gradually fill in the remainder of the trench.

Caring for Tender Seedlings!

2010-03-23T07:50:00.000-07:00

Seedling Care and Nurturing:

As your seedling emerges from the soil, most growers breath a big sigh of relief. Close your eyes and you can almost see the plant grow and flourish into it's full beauty, producing an enviable profusion of flowers or vegetables. As you open your eyes, you will immediately begin a new set of worries, over-nurturing the newborn indoors for a short time while the outdoor weather catches up with your dreams.

Thin Seedlings as needed- - Plants in your garden do not like to be crowded. Ditto with your seedlings, who need all the sun and nutrients that they can get.You may want to leave a few extras for a while as mortality rate of seedlings can be high.

Let there be light, and plenty of it- - As soon as the newborn seedling begins to emerge, it seeks light. Your newborn needs as much and as direct a light source as possible. Placing it by a window with a southern exposure is the first step. But this alone may not prove to be enough for the seedling to grow healthy and strong. First, the sun is not up as long in the spring as it is in the summer. Second, there are many rainy spring days with little or no direct sun. You should also acquire an artificial Grow Light and place the seedlings under it on cloudy days and at night.

Let There be Water, in just the right amount- - Provide water to your seedling every couple of days. Do not soak the soil each night. Overly wet soil encourages the development of damping off disease. Let the soil dry out a little on the top, then water thoroughly. Watering from the bottom is preferred. If you have a seed tray, add water to the bottom of the tray . The soil will absorb it through the bottom holes in your container...your container does have holes in the bottom, doesn't it!?!

Feed me, feed me- - The seedling does not need a lot of extra nutrients in it's first few days of life. Your soil starting mix usually comes with a balanced formula of nutrients that the seedlings need. After several days, adding a little liquid fertilizer to the water is helpful, but you do not need to give it full strength.

If the roots begin to come out the bottom of the pot, it is time to plant your seedling outdoors, weather permitting. If it is still too cool, keep the bottom of the tray moist, or put some extra soil in the bottom of the tray. Or, transplant seedlings to a larger pot. Most plants do not like to be root bound.

Guard against Leggy Plants- - Seedlings are leggy when their main stem or stalk grows tall and thin and can hardly support the leaf structure. It is caused by insufficient sunlight and a sheltered environment. Indoors, they do not experience the effect of wind, and do not need to develop structure to defend against it. Most seedlings do not even experience a slight breeze. When transplanted outdoors, "leggy" plants can be damaged or broken by the wind.

Tip: Take your hand,or a couple sheets of newspaper and fan the plants a few times a day. You can even lightly brush the tops of the plants, brushing back and forth in varying directions. You may notice the plants seem to slow down for a period. What they are really doing is building a stronger stem or stalk.

Let there be no Damping Off Disease:

Those of us who have grown seedling indoors for any number of years know what "Damping Off" disease. This is a white mold that forms in the top of the soil. Damping Off disease flourishes in cold, wet damp weather along with little sunshine. It quickly spreads across the soil and wilts the seedling. Take it's habitat away, and the disease can not survive. Plants on the other hand, love just the opposite conditions. The more you make conditions ideal for your plants, the more likely you will avoid Damping Off Disease and other mold and fungal problems.

If you do experience problems, do not give up hope. Here are some things you can do to minimize or eliminate disease problems:

First, get the plant in direct sunlight if at all possible.
Stop watering until the surface is very dry.
Water only from the bottom.
Scrape as much of the mold off the soil as possible.
Stir the top of the soil without disturbing the roots. It will also speed drying.
Add some soil, although this may or may not produce results.
Increase room air circulation. You can gently blow air on your plant trays with a small fan.

The total delight of gardening!

2010-03-21T07:45:00.000-07:00

Even the wee ones love to be kissed by lady bugs! This is Gracie, my great niece in a photo taken by her Mom Mystie Blankenship who is about to move into a brand new home and build a brand new garden.

Fragrant Garden!

2010-03-20T10:09:00.000-07:00

Flower fragrance is food for the soul
As much as aroma is food for the nose, it is also food for the soul. Nothing is as sure to bring a smile to any face as a whiff of the first bloom on a fragrant viburnum or daphne in spring. It is the confirmation of the promise of spring, a sure link to the goodness of the earth, and a vacation, if ever so fleeting, for the senses. There is a luxury in the perfumes of the garden, a luxury that remains enticingly in reach of almost everyone. You will thank yourself nearly 23,000 times a day.

Lavenders

Dianthus

Roses

Korean Spice Virbirnum

Lilacs In our everyday life, the average human draws 23,000 breaths a day. Included in every breath are the scents of our immediate surroundings, relaying a myriad of information. It is in this spirit that we plant our gardens with fragrant plants. The well planned fragrance garden provides a palette of scent....a "buffet" for the nose. In that same spirit, we should not lean solely on the flowers for the fragrance in our garden. The pungence of artemesia or the tang of lemon thyme can be perfect counterpoints for the spicy odor of flowers. Boxwood can not only define the border of the garden; it can be the canvas for a complex painting of aromas. Finally, the garden should not lack fragrance at any time of year. Even our garden chores can provide us with memory provoking scents. In the fall, the scent of burning leaves accompanies our annual clean up, and the smell of apples and pumpkins remind us of Thanksgivings past. In the winter, the smell of cut evergreens defines the Christmas holiday as surely as snow or Santa, and as the season progresses, forced paperwhites or hyacinths can herald the approach of spring.

Dividing and Transplanting!

2010-03-19T09:00:00.000-07:00

Thanks to Marie Ionotti from About.com for photos and script below!

Dividing & Transplanting

Spring is the ideal time for dividing or transplanting. Try to do this as soon as possible after the plant emerges. It's amazing how quickly plants recover from this abuse if you catch them early, when the weather is still mild and they're raring to grow.

Many perennial plants grow in an ever widening clump. After several seasons of growing, these perennial plants will begin to die out in the center and look more like a ring than a clump. To keep the plants vigorous and blooming, a technique known as 'Division' is performed. Dividing perennial plants gives you healthier, longer lived plants and the bonus of more plants.

When to divide perennials depends on the type of plant and how quickly it's growing. You don't have to wait until your perennial plants begin looking like doughnuts. In fact, it's better if you don't. Keep an eye out for clumps that have grown 2-3 times their size within 2-5 years. Any over grown clump or any clump that has simply exceeded the space allotted is a candidate for division.

It's true that dividing perennials is good for them in the long run. However it is still a shock to their system and giving them a good soaking, preferably the day before you intend to divide, will help your success.Disturbing the root system of any plant interrupts its ability to feed and hydrate itself. Insuring that the roots are well saturated before disturbing them reduces the trauma. Along the same lines as watering your perennial plant well before digging and dividing it, having the new planting hole prepared before you dig will limit the plant's time out of the ground and the stress on the root system.

A very common method of dividing perennials is to use 2 pitch forks to pry and split the plant apart. Perennial plants with fleshy roots, such as the daylily shown here, are easily pried apart with forks.Insert the forks into the center of the lifted plant so that the backs of the forks are touching each other and the tines are crossing. Press down so that the forks go through the plant. You will probably hear some cracking at this point. Let's hope it's your plant and not the handle on your pitch fork. In all seriousness, some plants are so dense that this method will not work. Exercise caution, since garden tool handles can break and send you tumbling.

Butterflies in your garden!

2010-03-18T08:18:00.001-07:00

Perchance a butterfly would light on the end of your grandson's nose, you might want plantings that attract butterflies. This photo was taken by Mark Lisk....my son number one, of his number one son Wyatt.

Butterfly gardening has become one of the most popular hobbies today. What could bring more joy than a beautiful butterfly fluttering around your garden?! Butterflies need water, just like your plants do so keep a bird bath in the middle of your flower garden. Plant your butterfly garden in a sunny location (5-6 hours each day), but sheltered from the winds. Butterflies need the sun to warm themselves, but they won't want to feed in an area where they are constantly fighting the wind to stay on the plants. It is also a good idea to place a few flat stones in your sunny location so the butterflies can take a break while warming up.

BUTTERFLY	CATERPILLAR HOST PLANT	BUTTERFLY NECTAR SOURCE
American Painted Lady	Everlasting, Daisy, Burdock	Aster, Dogbane, Goldenrod, Mallow, Privet, Vetch
American Snout	Hackberry	Aster, Dogbane, Dogwood, Goldenrod, Pepperbush
Anise Swallowtail	Queen Anne's Lace	Buddleia, Joe Pye Weed
Baltimore Checkerspot	Turtlehead, False Foxglove, Plantain	Milkweed, Viburnum, Wild Rose
Black Swallowtail	Parsley, Dill, Fennel	Aster, Buddleia, Joe Pye Weed, Alfalfa
Clouded Sulphur	Clover	Goldenrod, Grape Hyacinth, Marigold
Cloudless Sulphur	Cassia, Apple, Clover	Zinnia, Butterfly Bush, Cosmos, Cushion Mum
Comma	Elm, Hops, Nettle	Butterfly Bush, Dandelion
Common Buckeye	Snapdragon, Loosestrife	Carpetweed
Common Checkered Skipper	Mallow/Hollyhock	Shepherd's needles, Fleabane, Aster, Red Clover
Common Sulphur	Vetch	Aster, Dogbane, Goldenrod
Common Wood-nymph	Purpletop Grass	Purple Coneflower
Eastern Pygmy Blue	Glasswort	Salt Bush
Eastern Tailed Blue	Clover, Peas	Dogbane
Falcate Orangetip	Rock Cress, Mustard	Mustard, Strawberry, Chickweed, Violet
Giant Swallowtail	Citrus	Joe Pye Weed, Buddleia
Gorgone Checkerspot	Sunflower	Sunflower, Goldenrod
Gray Hairstreak	Mallow/Hollyhock, Clover, Alfalfa	Thistle, Ice Plant
Great Spangled Fritillary	Violet	Thistle, Black-eyed Susan, Milkweed, Ironweed
Greater Fritillary	Violet	Joe Pye Weed
Gulf Fritillary	Pentas, Passion-vine	Joe Pye Weed
Hackberry Emperor	Hackberry	Sap, Rotting fruit, Dung, Carrion
Little Glassywing	Purpletop Grass	Dogbane, Zinnia
Little Yellow	Cassia, Clover	Clover
Monarch	Milkweed	Dogbane, Buddleia
Mourning Cloak	Willow, Elm, Poplar, Birch, Nettle, Wild Rose	Butterfly Bush, Milkweed, Shasta Daisy, Dogbane
Orange Sulphur	Vetch. Alfalfa, Clover	Alfalfa, Aster, Clover, Verbena
Orange-barred Sulphur	Cassia	Many plants
Painted Lady	Thistle, Daisy, Mallow/Hollyhock, Burdock	Aster, Zinnia
Pearl Crescent	Aster	Dogbane
Pipevine Swallowtail	Dutchman's Pipe, Pipevine	Buddleia
Polydamus Swallowtail	Pipevine	Buddleia
Queen	Milkweed	Milkweed, Beggar-tick, Daisy
Question Mark	Hackberry, Elm, Nettle, Basswood	Aster, Milkweed, Sweet Pepperbush
Red Admiral	Nettle	Stonecrop, Clover, Aster, Dandelion, Goldenrod, Mallow
Red-spotted Purple	Black Cherry, Willow, Poplar	Privet, Poplar
Silver-spotted Skipper	Black Locust, Wisteria	Dogbane, Privet, Clover, Thistle, Winter Cress
Silvery Checkerspot	Sunflower	Cosmos, Blanket Flower, Marigold, Phlox, Zinnia
Sleepy Orange	Cassia, Clover	Blue Porter, Beggar Tick, Aster
Spicebush Swallowtail	Spicebush, Sassafras	Dogbane, Joe Pye Weed, Buddleia
Spring Azure	Dogwood, Viburnum, Blueberry, Spirea, Apple	Blackberry, Cherry, Dogwood, Forget-me-not, Holly
Tiger Swallowtail	Black Cherry, Birch, Poplar, Willow	Tree sap, Joe Pye Weed, Buddleia
Variegated Fritillary	Violet, Passion Vine	Joe Pye Weed
Viceroy	Willow, Poplar, Fruit Trees	Thistle, Beggar-tick, Goldenrod, Milkweed
Western Tailed Blue	Clover, Peas	Legumes
White Admiral	Birch, Willow, Poplar, Honeysuckle	Aphid Honeydew, Bramble Blossom
Zabulon Skipper	Purpletop Grass	Blackberry, Vetch, Milkweed, Buttonbush,Thistle
Zebra Longwing	Passion-vine	Verbena, Lantana, Shepard's Needle
Zebra Swallowtail	Pawpaw	Dogbane, Joe Pye Weed, Buddleia, Privet, Blueberry

The Birds and the Bees! Another good reason for organic gardening!

2010-03-17T08:49:00.000-07:00

Pollinating is the busy work of bees and birds...love gone wild!
Bee Pollination

Bees are the most productive pollinators because they intentionally collect pollen for their larva. Their legs have bristles that act as a pollen brush, with the first two pairs of legs brushing pollen from their hairy body and the third pair forming a pollen comb that collects pollen from bristles. The comb forces pollen into the pollen baskets on the legs. Bees have a sucking tongue (shorter than the butterflies and moths) that sips nectar, which the bees regurgitate into honey, which is food for the rest of the hive.

Hummingbird contributions to the garden.

Hummingbird pollinated flowers have a tendency to produce a certain amount of nectar that is drained by the birds. After the bird leaves to hunt for more nectar, the flowers will refill with more nectar, to encourage multiple opportunities to attract more birds and successful pollination.

Pest resistant plantings.

2010-03-16T07:54:00.000-07:00

Ladybugs are one of the good guys!

How to Plant a Pest Resistant Garden!

Pests bug me! Especially in my garden, so I have learned to pick plants that cut down on pest maintenance chores and the use of pesticides.

There are many plants that will attract beneficial insects that prey on pests that damage your garden. Not all bugs are pests however. Ladybugs and praying mantis are good examples of beneficial bugs in the garden!
Repels:
Artemisia - produces a strong antiseptic aroma that repels most insects. Use in flower borders or in a vegetable garden.
Basil - oils repel thrips, flies and mosquitoes.
Borage - repels tomato hornworms and cabbage worms and attracts beneficial bees and wasps.
Catnip - repels just about everything, except for cats! Keeps away flea beetles, aphids, Japanese beetles, squash bugs, ants, and weevils.
Chives - repels Japanese beetles and carrot rust flies.
Dahlias - repel nematodes.
Garlic - planted near roses it repels aphids. It also deters codling moths, Japanese beetles, root maggots, snails, and carrot root fly.
Attracts:
Dill - attracts hoverflies and predatory wasps, and its foliage is used as food by swallowtail butterfly caterpillars. Tomato hornworms are also attracted to dill, so if you plant it at a distance, you can draw these destructive insects away from your tomatoes. Dill repels aphids and spider mites. Sprinkle dill leaves on squash plants to repel squash bugs.
Hyssop - attracts honeybees to the garden.
Lavender - a favorite among many beneficial insects, but also repels fleas.
Sunflowers - draw aphids away from other plants. Ants will move their colonies onto sunflowers but sunflowers are unaffected.

Quote of the Day!

2010-03-15T09:59:00.000-07:00

I once had a sparrow alight upon my shoulder for a moment, while I was hoeing in a village garden, and I felt that I was more distinguished by that circumstance that I should have been by any epaulet I could have worn. ~Henry David Thoreau

Nature's insect control.

2010-03-15T09:47:00.000-07:00

Do bugs bug your roses? Do caterpillars enjoy your cabbage before you do? Do mosquitoes make it impossible to enjoy warm summer nights? Maybe it’s time to enlist Mother Nature’s insect-control army to improve your quality of life. Bring on the birds! A single bird can eat 1,000 insects in an afternoon, providing it with critical amounts of fat, protein, and potassium needed to maintain its high metabolism level. Compared to insecticides, birds provide an efficient job of insect control—with no negative impact on the environment. Sign ‘em up!

To enlist the birds, you need to learn the species of insect eaters that reside in your part of the country and then effectively attract them to your property. “Insect-eating birds help control pests at every stage of life,” says Judy Barrett, an expert on organic gardening from Taylor, Texas. “They eat insect eggs, larvae, and adults. Birds such as barn swallows and purple martins can eat pounds of mosquitoes and other flying insects in a day. Robins, mockingbirds, chickadees, nuthatches, woodpeckers, and titmice are all vociferous insect eaters. Bluebirds’ favorite summer foods include grasshoppers, crickets, ground beetles, spiders, and caterpillars.” Other insect eaters include meadowlarks, red-eyed vireos, yellow warblers, Baltimore orioles, wrens, and eastern phoebes. Even birds you might not think of as insect eaters feed insects to their young to provide the protein they need to grow in their early days of life. By providing the birds’ basic needs—food, water, shelter, and a place to raise their young —you will be treated to an unending source of entertainment and beauty while keeping your insect population under control. Cultivating plants that produce seeds, fruits, and berries will provide food. Allowing flowers such as sunflowers, goldenrod, thistles, cone flowers, and daisies to go to seed will attract finches, juncos, and sparrows and other seed-feeding birds, which feed their young insects. Stocking feeders with seed that is popular with the birds you are trying to attract can enhance your natural feeding efforts. Sunflower seeds, cracked corn, and nyjer thistle are favorites. Birds have preferences of where and what they eat. Some like to feed on the ground, while others prefer to eat at raised feeders. By providing several different types of feeders, each filled with the types of feed birds are attracted to and locating them where those birds prefer to feed, will assure frequent and regular visits.

Your relationship with birds is one of mutual benefit. You provide for some of the birds’ basic needs, and they help keep down the insect population and treat you to an unending source of entertainment and pleasure. It’s a win-win situation if ever there was one. To learn more about attracting insect-eating birds to your backyard, go to the National Wildlife Federation’s Web site, www.nwf.org. You will find information on creating a habitat, established habitats in your area that you can visit, a list of resources to help in establishing a habitat, and much more.

Beautiful color mixes well with garden veggies!

2010-03-14T08:13:00.001-07:00

This photo of summer flowers was taken by Keith Couch at the Boise Capital Farmers Market. Every year growing up I heard Mom and Dad fuss a little bit about planting flowers in the food garden. And every year....Mom won out with marigolds and zinnias and cosmos cheering up the beans and tomato plants. A row of marigolds actually acts as a natural insect barrier.

Beautiful, healthy veggies from your garden to your table!

2010-03-13T07:22:00.000-08:00

Veggies in your garden and on your table is worth the effort and builds strong immune systems. It is the best thing you could plant for your health!

The vegetable garden has traditionally been located in an area separate from other parts of the landscape because it was considered unsightly. With proper planning, however, the garden can be both functional and attractive.

There is no act more gratifying, more basic, more liberating, than to coax food from the Earth. Time and the rhythms of nature become the ultimate template by which to live. Do it just to know that you can do it, or do it just to live or do it to save money or for whatever reason.

Ten steps to begin an organic garden even if you have no gardening experience. The key elements are some sun, soil and water.

Minimum tools needed. A shovel and rake!

1. Stop applying all pesticides and weed killers to the soil in and around your entire garden. No exceptions.

2. Start small, 50 square feet for example. Find the spot that ideally has sun all year in your yard. If it's shaded part of the year, that's OK too. Avoid the area next to buildings or fences because of possible contamination of the soil by paint, heavy metals or chemicals.

3. Remove whatever debris is covering the dirt including rocks larger than a fingernail. If plants already grow there that you want somewhere else, dig them out with the shovel and save them off to the side.

4. Cover your gardening area with organic material such as leaves, dried grass and fine plant material from your own or other's non-pesticide sprayed gardens.

5. Get a bucketful of good compost from someone else's garden or crumbly black sweet-smelling soil from under forest trees. Spread this thinly all over your garden. You will be inoculating your soil with all manner of soil organisms, little bugs, worms and other beneficial life forms that are going to do most of the work for you if you give them the chance.

6. Use the pick or shovel to mix the top 3 inches of soil and organic material. Burying the organic material any deeper just kills the critters and wastes your energy.

7. Keep the soil damp like a wrung out sponge, not soggy.

8. Never walk on your soil. Make a kneeling board out of a small piece of scrap plywood to avoid compacting the soil and use an old cushion to save your knees. Create the minimum width paths to be able to reach across the soil without too much leaning.

9. Obtain vegetables in 4" square pots, a common size, or plants from friends. pots. Dig a hole slightly larger than the rootball, squeeze the sides of the pot to unstick the plant, fluff it's roots sideways and plant it. Mulch around it with organic material to keep the soil moist underneath it. Water the root ball.

10. Start your own compost heap in a corner of the garden. Skip the gimmicks, tumblers, boxes and devices. Just heap up all the clean organic material that you can get and mix it up occasionally. Apply the compost periodically to the soil around your plants or use it to start your own seeds.

Gardening in Containers!

2010-03-12T11:03:00.000-08:00

Gardening in pots and containers offers many advantages. A container lets you experiment with plant combinations and color. You can easily swap out plants with the season. Many container gardens are portable. You can let them follow the sun, or use them to fill in gaps in a border. And container gardens fit just about anywhere. So there's no excuse not to have a garden, even if you are a city apartment dweller.

Edibles in your landscape!

2010-03-10T19:22:00.000-08:00

Herbs are an essential part of any great cooks kitchen and curly parsley and many other herbs are beautiful tucked in beside bright annual flowers.

Strawberries are great ground cover and beautiful on a slope or between stepping stones. Raspberries are a great cover up for unsightly fences.

Blueberries are a great shrub to add to your landscape plan.

Filbert and English walnuts will be a wonderful tree and yeild nuts for baking.

Here are some more ideas for edible landscapes:

Put pots of herbs on the patio
Include cherry tomatoes in a window box or hanging basket
Build a grape arbor
Grow nasturtium, violas, borage, or calendula and include flowers in salads
Eat your daylilies
Plant a fruit tree in the corner of your yard
Grow Red-jewel Cabbage
Plant colorful pepper varieties (e.g., Lipstick, Habanero) alongside flowers
Tuck lettuce, radishes, or other short-lived greens into a flower bed
Replace a barberry hedge with gooseberries
Put basil together with coleus in a planter
Try yellow or "rainbow" chard
Grow chives around the mailbox

Quote of the Day!

2010-03-10T07:15:00.001-08:00

"When the winds of March are wakening the crocuses and crickets,
Did you ever find a fairy near some budding little thickets,...
And when she sees you creeping up to get a closer peek
She tumbles through the daffodils, a playing hide and seek."
~Marjorie Barrows

Hardscaping to accent the Xeriscape!

2010-03-10T06:47:00.000-08:00

Flagstone stepping stones allow you to work and walk between the plants.

The sound of water is a peaceful accent on the deck or in the garden.

A clay bunny is a surprise against the creeping thyme.

Every garden needs a fairy.

Choose a variety of textures when designing with both plants and hardscape accents.

Accents of rocks, gravel pathways, patterns of flagstone stepping stones, benches, statuary, bird baths and bird houses make your garden delightful! When it is overdone it looks like a garage sale so don't get carried away! But, a well placed bench to sit and enjoy the beauty of your labor is essential.

Quote of the Day!

2010-03-09T09:07:00.000-08:00

"I never saw a discontented tree. They grip the ground as though they liked it, and though fast rooted they travel about as far as we do. They go wandering forth in all directions with every wind, going and coming like ourselves, traveling with us around the sun two million miles a day, and through space heaven knows how fast and far!" ~John Muir

Evergreen plantings for drought resistant xeriscape.

2010-03-09T08:13:00.000-08:00

From miniature conifers to giant spruce, evergreens give year round pleasure and are easy care for decades of landscaping pleasure. One of my favorite spreading evergreens for sloped landscapes is the Icee Blue Juniper.

Icee Blue Juniper (Juniperus horizontalis 'Icee Blue')

Icee Blue is a horizontal spreading evergreen groundcover that grows to 6 inches in height. Hardy to zone 2, it prefers full sun and well-drained soil.

Dwarf varieties of conifers are ideal for xeriscaping and add textural interest and color in the garden.

Native to Colorado.....the beautiful blue spruce can grow up to 60 feet or more.

Quick Facts...

Select trees and shrubs for xeric landscapes based on both adaptation to your climate and the ability to prosper in reduced water situations.
Assess site soil, drainage and exposure before selecting trees and shrubs.
Apply adequate water during the first years of plant establishment, then gradually reduce irrigation.
Woody plants are a long-term investment so choose according to your master plan.

Shrubbery and trees that are drought resistant.

2010-03-08T08:10:00.000-08:00

If a drought-tolerant garden makes you think of cacti and rock gardens, then think again – there are many colorful and lush choices that are perfect for a low-maintenance, water-conserving landscape. As parts of the country experience a reduction in rainfall or restrictions on water use, drought-tolerance has become an increasingly desirable characteristic in cultivated plants. Here are a few drought tolerant selections....but there are many more.

Many flowering fruit trees—such as apples, pears, and plums—are drought-tolerant.

Rosy Glow Barberry features brilliant rosy-pink new growth atop the deep purplish-red foliage throughout the season. Small yellow flowers are produced in Spring but are hidden by the foliage so not considered showy. An exceptionally drought and heat tolerant shrub useful as a specimen accent or in small groups or massed in landscape beds, islands and foundation plantings. An easy to grow, low-maintenance plant. Grows in a wide range of soils provided there is very good drainage. This shrub does produce small spines along the branches, but you'll never have to touch it as no pruning is necessary.

Crimson Pygmy Barberry

Emerald Green Arborvitae is a tall, conical-shaped evergreen shrub that features attractive dark green foliage. Growth habit is dense and erect. Grows moderately fast to about 10-15' tall and 3 to 4' wide. Useful in foundation plantings to accentuate a tall entryway or as a corner plant. Useful in landscape beds and islands as an evergreen privacy screen, natural hedge, or wind and noise buffer. Prefers full sun but will tolerate a little shade. Easy to grow in well-drained soils and very low maintenance.

Dwarf Burning Bush features intense, fire-red foliage in Fall. The species grows to 15' tall, however, dwarf burning bush grows 8 to 10' tall and can be easily maintained by pruning at 5 to 6'. The leaves are dark dusty green in Spring and Summer and the habit is upright, bushy and vase-shaped. Useful as a hedge, specimen, accent plant or in small groups or mass plantings in landscape beds and islands. May also be used in foundation plantings as an accent. An easy to grow and low maintenance deciduous shrub that adapts to a wide range of soil types. Will grow in part shade, however displays the best Fall foliage color when grown in full to mostly sun.

Harland Dwarf Boxwood is useful sheared into a dense, formal hedge of 2 to 3' in height and width. Left natural, it will grow 4 to 5' tall with an equal spread. Also useful on either side of an entrance to formalize an entry way. The natural growth habit is dense, compact and rounded. The elongated evergreen leaves are leathery, dark green and lustrous. Easy to grow in most any well-drained soils, planters or containers. 'Harlandi'has better drought and pest tolerance than other boxwoods.

Wintergreen...Korean Boxwood

Forsythia 'Lynwood Gold', also known as 'Yellow Bells', is one of the first flowering shrubs to bloom in spring, when not much else is blooming. The branches become covered in bright yellow, bell-shaped flowers. The willowy green foliage is attractive throughout the season, turning purple in Fall. Give this one plenty of room to grow as it spreads to 10' in width. An easy to grow plant in most any type of well-drained soil and lots of sunshine. Fast growing.

'Limelight' Hydrangea produces large (6 to 12"), conical, unique, bright chartreuse blooms during Summer that hold their color into Fall, when the blooms change color to a rich deep pink. The autumn display of chartreuse and pink blooms on the same plant is breathtaking! Useful in partly shaded to shady areas of the landscape garden, and fresh or dried, in bouquets to make a unique floral design. One of the easiest hydrangeas to grow. Not finicky about soil type provided it is well-drained. A must in every garden.

Little Princess Spirea is a low-growing, mounding form with attractive mint green foliage that contrasts beautifully with the fuzzy, pink, flat-topped flowers produced from late Spring through Summer. If the faded flowers are sheared you can expect a repeat bloom. Flowers are attractive to butteflies. Foliage takes on attractive red hues in Fall. Useful as an accent, in small groups or massed, or as a border in landscape beds, islands and foundation plantings. A low-maintenance plant that will grow in a wide range of well-drained soils. Very drought tolerant once established.

'Nanho Blue' butterfly bush produces an abundance of spike-like blue flowers that are 6-12" in length Summer through Fall. Butterflies and hummingbirds love the flowers! Has an arching, spreading habit which typically grows to around 6-8' tall if not cut back in winter, and 5-6' tall if cut back. Most at home as a backgorund in perennial gardens and the flowering shrub border.

Russian Sage was the 1995 Perennial Plant of the Year. Spikes of intense blue flowers are produced during summer and contrast wonderfully with the silver, deeply cut, aromatic foliage. A true standout in the garden. Grows best in well-drained soil. Cut back to about a foot above the ground in late winter to keep plant full and encourage more flowers in summer.

Many Junipers are drought tolerant and give year round evergreen accent.

Parson's Juniper is a ground hugging evergreen conifer with feathery branches and needle-like, very dark green leaves. Excellent for use as a groundcover on large to small slopes and embankments, in small groups or as a border in landscape beds, or as a low-growing foundation shrub. Grows 24-30" in height and spreads 6-10'. Prefers full sun and well-drained soils. Salt tolerance makes it a good selection for seaside plantings.

Ornamental grasses in your landscape.

2010-03-07T13:55:00.000-08:00

Karl Forester

Ornamental Grasses are attractive landscape plants that require minimal maintenance and provide interest in the landscape for more than one season. Grasses are rapid growers that can remain undisturbed in the landscape for long periods of time or may be easily increased by dividing the clumps in the spring.

Blue Fescue

Ornamental Grasses are gaining in popularity all over the U.S. due to their undemanding nature and long lasting, year round beauty. There is nothing that adds such interesting forms, textures and movement to a garden, than with this diverse plant group. They can be planted along banks of ponds, incorporated into perennial gardens, grouped together, utilized as a ground cover along walkways, paths or on steep banks. They aren't fussy about soil requirements, are drought tolerant as well as insect and disease resistant.

Beauty without bother.....perennial plants for xeriscaping.

2010-03-07T08:24:00.000-08:00

Creeping wooly thyme.

My Favorite Drought-Tolerant Perennials

Here are some of my favorite perennials that tolerate drought. Depending on where you live some suggestions may not work for your area. Check with your county extension agent.

Achillea millefolium (yarrow)
Anthemis tinctoria (golden marguerite)
Asclepias tuberosa (butterfly weed)
Aurinia saxatilis (basket-of-gold)
Baptisia (false indigo)
Calamintha nepeta (catmint)
Coreopsis verticillata (threadleaf coreopsis)
Echinacea purpurea (purple coneflower)
Echinops ritro (globe thistle)
Euphorbia polychroma (cushion spurge)
Gypsophila paniculata (baby's-breath)
Helianthus angustifolius (sunflower)
Hemerocallis (daylilies)
Lavandula angustifolia (lavender)
Limonium latifolium (sea lavender)
Malva sylvestris (mallow, zebra malva)
Perovskia atriplicifolia (Russian sage)
Rudbeckia fulgida (orange coneflower)
Santolina chamaecyparissus (lavender cotton)
Sedum (stonecrop)
Stachys byzantina (lamb's-ears)
Solidago (goldenrod)
Thymus (thyme)
Yucca

Yarrow

Coneflower

Lavender....sometimes grown as a crop but beautiful in your garden....so fragrant.

Artemesia in foreground with coneflowers in the background.

This garden is filled with drought tolerant plants that keep the seasons beauty in tact. Lamb's ear, iris, ground covering thyme amidst the dry creek hardscape makes for easy maintenance and low water requirements.

Sedums (stonecrops) in your landscape...beauty without the bother!

2010-03-06T07:20:00.000-08:00

Sedums (stonecrops) for ground cover.....easy care spreading plants.

Autumn Fire and Autum Joy are hardy, excellent upright sedums with long lasting blooms.

Purple Emperor

You don't need a green thumb or hours of spare time to grow sedums. They thrive in almost any sunny site as long as the soil drainage is good. They're drought tolerant and not picky about soil fertility or pH. They're also easy to propagate, which makes them a definite favorite of mine. This is the perfect plant to divide and share with friends. I have excellent results propagating sedums by tip cuttings. All you need is a pair of pruning shears and a plastic tray or pot filled with a well-draining soil mix. I use equal parts of potting soil and sand. There's no need for rooting hormones or humidity tents.From the tip of the stems, snip sections with three or more leaves into pieces 3 to 4 inches long. Pull off the bottom two leaves of these sections and push the cuttings into moistened soil mix so that the exposed nodes (the points where the leaves join the stem) are below the surface of the mix. The new roots will emerge from these nodes. Water the cuttings and set them in a shady place. Check the soil mix often and water enough to keep the cuttings from drying out. Sedums generally root in about 3 weeks. You can check by gently tugging on a cutting. If you feel resistance, it has roots on the other end. Six to eight weeks after starting, cuttings are ready for transplanting. I tip the cuttings out of the pot, gently pull them apart, and plant them directly into the garden or pots.

Succulents....good for xeriscaping and dish gardens!

2010-03-05T08:34:00.000-08:00

Sedums and succulents

Succulents are booming in popularity for two simple reasons: they are beautiful and nearly indestructible. Technically, a succulent is any plant with thick, fleshy (succulent) water storage organs. Succulents store water in their leaves, their stems or their roots. These plants have adapted to survive arid conditions throughout the world, from Africa to the deserts of North America. Fortunately for us, this adaptive mechanism has resulted in an incredible variety of interesting leaf forms and plant shapes, including paddle leaves, tight rosettes, and bushy or trailing columns of teardrop leaves. As a group, succulents include some of the most well-known plants, such as the aloe and agave, and many almost unknown plants. Cacti are a unique subset of the succulent group. Succulents make excellent display plants in dish gardens. No matter what kind of succulent you're growing, the rules are pretty similar between the different species. Here are the general rules for growing top-quality succulents:

Light:

Succulents prefer bright light, such as found on a south-facing window. Watch the leaves for indications that the light level is correct. Some species will scorch if suddenly exposed to direct sunlight. The leaves will turn brown or white as the plant bleaches out and the soft tissues are destroyed. Alternatively, an underlit succulent will begin to stretch, with an elongated stem and widely spaced leaves. This condition is known as etoliation. The solution is to provide better light and prune the plant back to its original shape. Many kinds of succulents will thrive outdoors in the summer.

Temperature:

Succulents are much more cold-tolerant than many people assume. As in the desert, where there is often a marked contrast between night and day, succulents thrive in colder nights, down to even 40ºF. Ideally, succulents prefer daytime temperatures between 70ºF and about 85ºF and nighttime temperatures between 50ºF and 55ºF.

Water:

Succulents should be watered generously in the summer. The potting mix should be allowed to dry between waterings, but do not underwater. During the winter, when the plants go dormant, cut watering back to once every other month. Overwatering and ensuing plant rot is the single most common cause of plant failure. Be aware, though, that an overwatered succulent might at first plump up and look very healthy. However, the cause of death may have already set in underground, with rot spreading upward from the root system. A succulent should never be allowed to sit in water. The following are signs of under- or overwatering:

Overwatering. Overwatered plants are soft and discolored. The leaves may be yellow or white and lose their color. A plant in this condition may be beyond repair, but you can still remove it from its pot and inspect the roots. If they are brown and rotted, cut away dead roots and repot into drier potting media, or take a cutting and propagate the parent plant.
Underwatering: Succulents prefer generous water during the growing season (spring and summer). An underwatered plant will first stop growing, then begin to shed leaves. Alternatively, the plant may develop brown spots on the leaves.

Potting Soils:

Succulents should be potted in a fast-draining mixture that's designed for cacti and succulents. If you don't have access to a specialized mix, considering modifying a normal potting mix with an inorganic agent like perlite to increase aeration and drainage. These plants generally have shallow roots that form a dense mat just under the soil surface.

Fertilizer:

During the summer growing season, fertilizer as you would with other houseplants. Stop fertilizing entirely during the winter.

Beautiful varieties of succulents are in most nurseries including Home Depot.

Sedums mix well with succulents in a rock garden or dish garden!

Xeriscaping!

2010-03-04T07:30:00.000-08:00

Pronounced as if it began with the letter z, the use of "xeriscaping" originated with the Denver Colorado Water Department in 1981. A compound of the Greek xeros, dry, and "-scape," as in landscape, "xeriscape" landscaping essentially refers to a creating a landscape design that has been carefully tailored to withstand drought conditions.

Xeriscape landscaping can take many forms. For some landscapers, xeriscape landscaping simply means grouping plants with similar watering requirements together on the landscape. This makes for more efficient watering. For others it means the minimalist approach to planting and the use of other design features.....rocks, bark and ground covers to replace lawns.

America's love affair with the lawn is well-documented. The assumption that a landscape will have lots of grass and that it will stay green all growing season is as firmly rooted in the American psyche as the assumption that a house will have windows. A major premise of xeriscape landscaping, by contrast, is that turf grass is problematic, because it is a water-guzzler. Not that all practitioners of xeriscape landscaping totally eliminate lawns, mind you. Some simply switch to types of lawn grass that demand less water (possibly making aesthetic concessions in the switch). Others cut back on the expanse and expense of lawn, relegating the lawn area to an accent on the landscape rather than maintaining the lawn in its position as the dominant element.

Then what, you may ask, fills the void in xeriscape landscaping left by the receding lawn? To some degree, the answer to that will depend on your location. In the southwestern U.S. cacti and extended patios may dominate, perhaps entirely eliminating grass if the lawn area is small. An extended patio is simply an enlarged patio that takes up space where lawn grass would otherwise be planted. In regions not quite as desperate for water, the answer may lie in ground covers, shrubs, mulches and a reduced lawn area.

But almost regardless of where you live, you should start considering cheaper alternatives to lawns. While many are aware of the danger posed by drought, relatively few seem willing to make concessions to it and look for drought-resistant alternatives to lawn grasses. Many homeowners simply watch helplessly as their lawns die sooner and sooner each summer. Else they pay dearly for the water required to prolong the lawn's life, as water becomes less and less cheap. Automatic irrigation systems, incidentally, can end up saving you money in the long run and drip irrigation systems are the most water conservative. Nonetheless, water restrictions of increasing severity are a fact with which we may have to live for the foreseeable future.

Rather than bemoaning the loss of lawn space, think of the present predicament as an opportunity to experiment. In addition to extended patio areas, walkways and other hardscape elements, a myriad of interesting xeriscaping plants and themes can be incorporated into a xeriscape landscaping plan. Here are a few:

Succulents ....hens and chicks
- aloe
- sedums
Rock garden plantings....cacti, ground covers
Wildflowers native to your area
Ornamental grasses:
- purple fountain grass
- yellow pampas grass
- Mexican feather grass
- blue oat grass

Herbs in your garden!

2010-03-03T08:10:00.000-08:00

There is nothing quite like picking fresh herbs from your window sill, pots or garden for flavoring what's cooking. Whether it is garnish or a part of the dish...herbs are healthy and easy to grow.

Herbs are a wonderful addition to any garden. They can be grown in vegetable gardens, in flower gardens, or in containers. Growing herbs in containers is a great way to have fresh herbs close to the kitchen for cooking. Some container grown herbs can then be moved indoors when the growing season is over for further enjoyment.

Herbs can be grown in various types of containers. Terra cotta and clay pots are popular. Clay pots work well because they provide a stable anchor and allow air to move through the root zone. Plastic works well too and is lighter and therefore easier to move around. Hanging baskets and window boxes can also be used. Be sure the container has sufficient drainage holes in the bottom. Several herbs can be grown in one container or each herb can have its own container. Some perennial herbs can be taken inside and grown during the winter, so consider that possibility when selecting the container(s) for your herb garden.

Herbs grow best in well-drained soil. Select a well-drained, commercial potting mix or combine potting mix, peat moss, and perlite in equal parts.

The water requirements vary depending on the species of herb being grown. Some herbs need to dry out between watering while others prefer to stay moist. Herbs grown in clay containers may require more frequent watering because they tend to dry out faster. Plants should be watered before they begin to wilt severely. In the heat of the summer, this could be as frequent as once or twice a day. When grouping multiple herbs in one container, be sure their water requirements are comparable.

Herbs require full sun whether they are grown indoors or outside. Place the container in a location where it receives at least 4 to 6 hours of sunlight each day. Perennial herbs grown inside over the winter may require supplemental lighting.

Although herbs do not require as much fertilizer as other container plants, they will benefit from periodic light fertilization with a dilute fertilizer solution. Rampant or spindly growth can be controlled by pinching.

Leafy annual herbs should be harvested when the flower buds first appear. This is when the flavor from the volatile oils is best. Remove the top leaves and stems with a sharp knife or shears. Cut just above a leaf or pair of leaves. Leave 4 to 6 inches of plant material on annual herbs. Perennial herbs can not be harvested as heavily as annual herbs. Remove only the top third of the plant or the leafy tip growth on perennial herbs. Harvest the herbs as needed in the kitchen.

Basil and cilantro are two of my favorite flavors in the herb garden.

Community of gardeners..common ground!

2010-03-02T09:02:00.000-08:00

Observing community gardens is a lesson for life.....planting, growing, weeding little plots of ground right next to another city dweller makes for connected communities. Even if you are an apartment dweller, most bigger cities have community gardens that you can have a great experience with growing things and meeting neighbors. It's common ground...it will help us grow!

Urban spaces.......healthy places!

Blooming Planets!

2010-03-01T08:15:00.000-08:00

Blooming planets….hazy fields,

Clouds roll by in lazy reels.

Grass and flowers share the hill,

With birds and bees in noisy thrill.

Fragrance of the tendrilled earth,

Celebrates the splendid birth.

Of pastel pinks and hues of green.

Colors of an artist’s dream.

Blue of sky and clouds of white.

Parade of angels, taking flight.

Seen by those who view the planets,

Writing poems and singing sonnets.

Know the music of each sphere,

Is simply Love becoming clear.

Angel whispers true and real,

Validating what we feel.

If you hear the angels sounding,

Listen to sweet joy abounding.

Wings unfurled and softly flapping,

Sound of heaven’s rhythmic clapping.

They often stomp and shout and cheer.

To hear the magic of the sphere.

Sing and dance with flowers adorn,

Music for the pleasant morn.

Be prepared to laugh and gaze,

Next time you see a springtime haze.

For you have heard an angel’s tune.

Where flowers grow and planet’s bloom.

Quote of the Day!

2010-03-01T08:13:00.000-08:00

"Springtime is the land awakening. The March winds are the morning yawn." ~Quoted by Lewis Grizzard in Kathy Sue Loudermilk, I Love You

2010-03-01T08:06:00.000-08:00

Bridal veil spirea.....an early sign of spring.

It's March.....the month of lions and lambs!

2010-03-01T07:57:00.000-08:00

The weather may be a bit unpredictable in March, but that's no reason not to be planning your garden and getting things started before winter's last blast. Dormant spraying, pruning, clean-up should all be done soon....so pull up your socks and put on your gloves and and git' er' dun! April blooms are just around the corner. The garden fairies are already busy.

Quote of the Day!

2010-02-28T06:29:00.000-08:00

"Wine is bottled poetry." ~Robert Louis Stevenson

Pruning Grape Vines

2010-02-28T06:21:00.000-08:00

Step 1

The Most desirable time to prune grapevines is late winter or early spring. The extent of pruning is dictated by the amount of new growth.
Taking out the old canes and letting the new ones thrive is called " balanced pruning"
Step 2

Take a look at your vine, look for 2-3 yr old canes.. prune these out trying to maintain at least 3 thriving canes from each vine. Prune out all growth from the ground to the first horizontal support
Step 3

This training system is designed to encourage new fruit production at the specific positions of the vine. Dormant pruning can be done anytime between leaf drop and bud break in the spring.check out resources below for pruning shear site.
Step 4

Grape growers often prune vines with the intent to achieve a balance between fruit and shoot growth.. a canopy that is too crowded is not good for either. Excessive pruning can reduce the fruit output. For most gardeners, pruning grapevines is relatively easy with a basic understanding of the pruning principals, the right tools and some courage

Tips & Warnings

Use stainless wire to tie off your vines and create horizontal supports
cross over shears are the best
don't prune to early in fall
don't prune after march 15th

Backyard haven or front porch.....design tranquility!

2010-02-27T08:19:00.000-08:00

Even on a busy city lot you can achieve privacy and traquility with fencing and plantings that give you a peaceful sanctuary. Plan ahead....get the vision and step by step make it come into reality.

The garden teaches vision.

2010-02-27T08:12:00.000-08:00

Now is a great time to practice visualizing how your garden grows. Is it in neat rows or raised beds or scattered patterns of beauty. I always am impressed how the Olympic athletes visualize their performance before they even begin. Gardening is the same...get a vision....dream....and make it happen!

Roses, roses, roses!

2010-02-26T09:01:00.000-08:00

Thanks to Pat Kasa of Seattle for an article with great tips for growing roses!

'Midas Touch' is a disease resistant, long lasting, repeat- blooming hybrid tea with wonderful fragrance

Roses, Roses, Roses

Bare-root roses are available in garden centers now, and the selection is mind-boggling. Frequently called the queen of flowers, roses have played a starring role in my garden for decades. In my opinion, no other plant could possibly compete with the fragrance and beauty of a rose.

Roses also have the reputation of being difficult to grow, but the challenge of growing healthy roses is part of their attraction. Luckily, rose breeders are leveling the playing field by introducing new varieties that tolerate less-than-perfect growing conditions. And because these new varieties are more adaptable -- even in my sunshine-challenged garden -- I can be successful. You can be successful with roses, too.

When you're buying roses for your garden, be sure to select fragrant varieties. Surprisingly, many beautiful roses have little fragrance. If you make room for some scented gems, they will perfume your entire garden.

Rules of the Road
Roses need lots of sunlight -- at least six hours a day -- or they won't flower freely. Good air circulation also is essential if you want to keep your roses in top form. Find out how large your plants will be at maturity and space them accordingly.

Eliminate weed competition by spreading a 3- or 4-inch mulch of shredded bark or other material under your roses. Because roses have shallow root systems, it's best to tread lightly when weeding around your plants.

Water your roses in the morning so the plants have time to dry out before nightfall. A drip irrigation system is probably your best bet because it delivers water directly to the root zones of the plants and doesn't wet the foliage.

And finally, if space is at a premium, grow vertically. Climbers and ramblers trained on a trellis or arbor can add drama, color, and fragrance to any garden. Just remember that over time climbing roses can get heavy, so be sure your supports are sturdy.

Bare-Root or Container-Grown Plants
There are two traditional planting times for roses; late winter to early spring, and in the fall. Bare-root roses, which are available now, are dug from the field during their dormant stage. The roots are plunged into a box or bag filled with sawdust, and the canes are dipped in wax to prevent premature growth while in transit and storage. Purchasing bare-root roses is sometimes an act of faith. Their dormant stage belies their potential, and there's really nothing to go by except the picture on the package.

On the other hand, bare-root roses are convenient little packages. They're relatively inexpensive, and you can fit a lot of them into the trunk of your car!

Container-grown roses take a lot of the guesswork out of choosing roses for your garden. You can see the flower color and size and inspect the canes and foliage for pest problems prior to purchase. Container roses may be available most any time of the year, but early fall is usually the best time to buy and plant them.

Choosing a Site and Planting
Roses do best when they get at least 6 hours of direct sun per day. Morning sun dries the foliage early in the day, which may be wet from overnight rainfall or morning dew. Since dampness can encourage fungal disease problems, it's essential to provide adequate sunshine and air circulation around each plant.

Here are some planting tips:
1. Dig Deep. Whether you are preparing a large bed for several roses or setting out a single plant, it pays to take time preparing the soil. For a new bed, I start by loosening the top 8 to 10 inches of soil and mixing in plenty of well-rotted manure or compost. Next, I broadcast about 1/2 cup of superphosphate and 1 cup of rose fertilizer over the area. I then mix everything together, level it and let the soil settle for a week or two before planting.

For a single bare-root plant, I dig a hole 14 to 16 inches wide and 12 to 18 inches deep, amend the soil with organic matter and fertilizer as I do with a bed, then plant the rose. For a container rose, the planting hole should be the same depth as the container and about 18 inches wide. I loosen the soil all the way around the rootball to expose the roots, spread them out a bit, then set the plant in the hole at about the same depth it was growing in the pot. I fill the hole with soil that's been amended with compost, superphosphate, and rose fertilizer, and tamp gently to firm the soil down around the roots.

2. Water Well. The first few weeks after planting are critical for new roses. Most important is regular watering. Roses need about an inch of water per week. Building a basin beneath each rose bush and filling it once or twice at watering time will allow the moisture to trickle down slowly and wet the entire root mass.

No Room For Roses?
Roses grow well in containers if garden space is at a premium. Use a 16-inch pot to accommodate roots, and fill it with a good grade of commercial potting soil. Remember that potted roses must have winter protection because their roots are exposed to winter air temperatures. Put them on wheels so you can wheel them into an unheated garage for the winter months.

Armed with these guidelines, planning for a rosy future should be easy. Enjoy!

Quote of the Day!

2010-02-25T09:22:00.000-08:00

"Freedom has its life in the hearts, the actions, the spirit of men and so it must be daily earned and refreshed - else like a flower cut from its life-giving roots, it will wither and die." ~Dwight D. Eisenhower

Old, old trees!

2010-02-25T08:56:00.000-08:00

Trees can grow to be very old....the sitka spruce in Colorado and the live oak trees on a plantation in Louisiana I once visited. Can you imagine what they have witnessed over the centuries. So with mint julep in hand, I sat under a 300 year old live oak tree and wrote from the perspective of a tree. Strange, I know...but the mint julip assisted!

The witness!

For 300 years history has unfolded beneath my live oak branches.

The lovers who sat in the shade carefully dressed and chaperoned, drinking lemonade…..the children who climbed in my branches, both black and white…..the overseers who tied slaves to my trunk and merciless beat them bloody….and the soldiers who drank cool water and washed the grime from their faces….many have passed this way. I have watched undistorted history, not convoluted by the North or the South, by black or white men. Not revisionist history, but the smell of real history….the sweat and human blood mixed together and running down a brown muscular back, the sound of a crack of a whip or the crack of a rifle, the sight of the best of society departing their carriages, coming down this alley of oaks, dressed in their partying best and fanning themselves on a warm summer’s evening, promenading to the big house.

I am witness to the slave mother laying at my feet in the deepest grief as her children were sold on the auction block, wishing she could be beneath my roots and no longer able to bear children. And the mistress, equally in grief as child after child succumbed to yellow fever….my branches almost touch their gravesites. And now, 300 years later as my heavy branches touch the manicured ground, tourists marvel at my age and the spread of my canopy and what foresight the landscaper had to put us so equally at a distance to form such a beautiful entrance to this plantation. They are without the knowledge of what I have seen…..only listening attentively to the tour guide’s explain the many masters that owned this land of sugar cane and rice.

There are a few among the group, very few, who wonder where the slave’s quarters are and what became of the human lives who built this plantation with raw back breaking labor. The questions become awkward as it interrupts the flow of the volunteer, dressed in hooped skirt and speaking in sweet tones. So the tour moves on, except for one, who leans against my trunk, drinking a mint julep and closes her eyes to feel the history, to smell the heat of the afternoon and to pause a moment to honor all that I have seen. I tell her as she hugs my trunk and pays her respects to all those that have passed before her…..under my branches and upon my roots. Her heart feels my reverence for those journeys as I stand as witness and share it with her.

Plant trees for color in many seasons!

2010-02-24T10:30:00.000-08:00

Trees! Giving oxygen...deeply rooted life!

2010-02-24T10:19:00.000-08:00

Thanks to a friend that is trying to paint trees, I've been thinking about the life giving, solidly anchored roots of trees and how they have as much structure that is unseen as is seen. Whether it is the flowing branches of a weeping willow or the upright structure of an oak that reaches its branches heavenward, I am in love with trees. They are the center of many landscapes, the heart of the garden in many instances. The specimen smoke tree adds color and drama, the blue spruce against the burgundy of Japanese bayberry is exquisite. Think big in your garden planning....now is the time to plant trees!

Seed packets are wonderful mementos!

2010-02-23T09:03:00.000-08:00

For-get-me-not seed packets are given out at the Boise Breast Cancer Detection Center reminding us to have our mammogram once a year. And, another idea I loved.....handing them out as a remembrance at a memorial service for a loved one. Wouldn't it be fun to hand out at a goodbye party as well for neighbors that are moving? Any more ideas?

From tiny little seeds....a garden grows!

2010-02-23T08:37:00.000-08:00

2010-02-22T09:44:00.000-08:00

A gardener's poem!

2010-02-22T09:04:00.000-08:00

A gardener walks her path with grace,

Among the froth of Queen Anne’s lace,

Paints with plants and flowering trees,

A lovely home for birds and bees.

She sits on porch, a shady place,

Sharing fruit of garden’s taste.

A bite of berry, sweet reddish hue….

Vase of lavender, heads of blue.

How fine is this on summer’s day?

But oh, the price there is to pay.

In denim jeans smeared ore with dirt,

This gardener clothed in sweaty shirt.

She dug and hoed and planted deep,

The seeds of love so time would reap,

A harvest worthy of such work,

Where spotted lady bugs would lurk.

Tis’ feast for eyes and taste buds too,

Tomatoes, peppers and meadow rue,

Parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme,

A gardener’s work in nature’s rhyme.

Tis’ a labor of love she often said,

But early went to feathered bed.

Again to rise with chirping birds,

Coffee first before the words….

“Today I’ll tackle the front yard.

A rose to climb with fence to guard,

Needs food and water, just like us.

The sun is up, I really must…”

Can a gardener be a lady sure,

Knee deep in mulch of brown manure?

Or does she simply let the glow,

Reflect in smile from row to row.

She steps around her greenest friends,

Pruning, weeding til’ daylight ends.

What view do humans get of her?

Elbows and fine, plump derrière.

Crocuses are croaking!

2010-02-21T09:19:00.000-08:00

The first burst of color are crocuses.....a lively contrast to winter's bleak tones. Bulbs planted in the fall in mass colors will multiply as the seasons pass. After blooming and the green dies back you can divide them and plant more patches of spring color.

Summer rose blooms begin with expert spring pruning!

2010-02-19T10:38:00.000-08:00

The beautiful peace rose!

Pruning rose bushes!

2010-02-19T10:18:00.001-08:00

Early spring is the best time to prune rose bushes.....removing dead wood and shaping the bush to open the center for good air circulation and sunlight in the center. I like to leave at least five healthy canes around the outside edges of the plant.
Use clean sharp pruning tool and cut at a 45 degree angle...seal wound with white glue to prevent infestation of cane borers or fungus. Remove any rubbish and do not put in with compost. For climbing roses....just cut back the winter deadwood and shape them for the grandest and tallest specimens that your trellis or fence can hold.

2010-02-18T09:09:00.000-08:00

Now is the time to prune fruit trees!

2010-02-18T09:00:00.000-08:00

Before the buds swell and begin to emerge it is time to prune unwanted branches from your fruit trees. Growers often neglect the annual training and pruning of fruit trees. Without training and pruning, however, fruit trees will not develop proper shape and form. Properly trained and pruned trees will yield high quality fruit much earlier in their lives and live significantly longer.
A primary objective of training and pruning is to develop a strong tree framework that will support fruit production. Improperly trained fruit trees generally have very upright branch angles, which result in serious limb breakage under a heavy fruit load. This significantly reduces the productivity of the tree and may greatly reduce tree life. Another goal of annual training and pruning is to remove dead, diseased, or broken limbs. Proper tree training also opens up the tree canopy to maximize light penetration. For most deciduous tree fruit, flower buds for the current season's crop are formed the previous summer. Light penetration is essential for flower bud development and optimal fruit set, flavor, and quality. Although a mature tree may be growing in full sun, a very dense canopy may not allow enough light to reach 12 to 18 inches inside the canopy. Opening the tree canopy also permits adequate air movement through the tree, which promotes rapid drying to minimize disease infection and allows thorough pesticide penetration. Additionally, a wellshaped fruit tree is aesthetically pleasing, whether in a landscaped yard, garden, or commercial orchard.

General Fruit Tree Pruning Instructions

Always use sharp shears or saws so your cuts are clean. Use pruning shears on young trees and limbs less than 1/2 inch diameter, and lopping shears for your bigger cuts. For mature fruit trees, use a pruning saw.
Begin by removing dead wood and broken branches. Then cut out any wood that crosses or rubs against any other branches. This opens up the middle so the sun can get to all the fruit.
Make your cut close to a bud, to a joint in the branch, or to the trunk; never leave a stub. The pruning cut should be just above a bud. Make the cut at a backwards angle of about 30 degrees.
Prune stems just above a pair of opposing strong shoots or buds. If shoots or buds are staggered, choose a strong one and prune just above it.
Keep more horizontal branches, and prune more vertical branches.
Remove suckers (shoots) from around the base of the tree.
Get rid of all debris which can harbor pests and disease

Dormant Spray!

2010-02-17T10:18:00.000-08:00

Prune out branches and shape trees and bushes before the blooms and foilage appear!

It's time to apply that oily based dormant spray to fruit trees and deciduous shrubs....they suffocate any eggs that are waiting to hatch. Dormant oil spraying should be done on a clear day when there is little or no breeze. The ideal temperature for application is between 40° and 70° F., preferably temperatures should remain over 50° F. for at least twenty four hours in order to get the oil to spread out over the tree and cover all crooks and crevices. Complete coverage is required for effective control of all overwintering pests. Apply this spray under pressure with a pump sprayer, or with a hose- end sprayer two times; when all of the leaves have fallen (late November or early December), and again in early February before buds begin to swell. In some instances, gardeners are successful with only one application during the period of early December through late January. But if the infestation or disease was very bad during the previous season, two sprayings would be the best bet.

Always wear a mask when spraying your plants with chemicals.
These products should never be used on evergreens because they are much too strong and caustic, and can cause damage.
The use of a dormant oil mixture may destroy many annual flowers growing under or near plants being treated. Completely cover such tender vegetation BEFORE spraying.
Fungus spores can also overwinter on fallen leaves. Be sure to rake and dispose of leaves if you know you have a disease problem.

Tiptoe Through The Tulips!

2010-02-16T09:48:00.000-08:00

Tulips coming up through the late winter soil are the first sign of spring. Depending on your location....they emerge as early as February for blooms in March, April and May. Some are early bloomers, some are mid-bloomers and some later bloomers. Hopefully, when you planted them last fall, you read the package for height and seasonal blooming guidelines. Give them a little light fertilizing when you see they are breaking through the soil and clear away any old foilage and leaves to let them breathe.

Quote of the Day!

2010-02-15T11:00:00.000-08:00

"My green thumb came only as a result of the mistakes I made while learning to see things from the plant's point of view. " ~H. Fred Dale (Thanks, Anne)

Cool weather plants for early spring beauty!

2010-02-15T10:54:00.000-08:00

Pansies get a bad rap for being sissies! Think again! The pansy is an early, sturdy, bloomer that is hardy colorful and tough...sometimes even in the snow. So the next time you call someone a pansy....it's a compliment.

2010-02-12T10:10:00.001-08:00

2010-02-12T09:18:00.000-08:00

Happy Valeninte's weekend......I'm going to buy some primroses and pansies for the pot on the balcony.

Pucker up....it's almost Valentine's Day!

2010-02-11T09:34:00.000-08:00

"Love - a wildly misunderstood although highly desirable malfunction of the heart which weakens the brain, causes eyes to sparkle, cheeks to glow, blood pressure to rise and the lips to pucker." ~Author Unknown

Flowers from the heart!

2010-02-11T09:31:00.000-08:00

Harbinger of spring.....pansies and primroses!

2010-02-10T09:09:00.000-08:00

"Spring makes its own statement, so loud and clear that the gardener seems to be only one of the instruments, not the composer." ~Geoffrey B. Charlesworth

Quote of the day!

2010-02-09T09:06:00.000-08:00

"There is no surprise more magical than the surprise of being loved. It is God's finger on man's shoulder." ~Charles Morgan

2010-02-09T08:59:00.000-08:00

Top ten romantic plants to give!

2010-02-09T08:35:00.000-08:00

Plants needs regular care, just like your relationship. There are many plants that represent loving relationships. There are many civilizations, where we find plants that represent love and romance. Similarly, you can also find a series of instances in literature, where plants have helped love bloom. Thus, here comes top 10 romantic plants.

1.Rose Plants: For ages, roses represent love and passion, so the rose plant is the top romantic plants of all time. You can add little bits of vibrancy to your garden with this plant. The radiance and shine of roses will surely put new life in your landscape.

2.Orchids: With lively colors and its elegant beauty, orchids make a wonderful choice of a romantic plant. Orchid flowers come in lovely colors thereby representing love and passion. The mind blowing smell of orchids can be called the smell of heaven and love.

3.Lily Plants: Lily plants comes in different single colors and symbolize the innocence of love. The delicacy of lilies expresses the feeling that you are under the most powerful spell of the universe.

4.Sunflowers: A flower with bright golden color and always facing the sun represents the symbol of loyalty and the ability to endure during hard times. So, if you are wondering how to spread and convey the most powerful feeling of love select sunflowers.

5.Berry Plants: Berry plants comes in different types and colors like red, dark lavender, purple, blue and express the magic of love in an earthy way. The dark colors of the berry plants also represent the dominating and wild passion involved with love. Thus, berry plant is another on the list of best romantic plants.

6.Pansy Plants: This cool weather plant represents the dreams of romance and nostalgic feelings. Thus, if you want to feel love beating with your pulse go for pansy plants.

7.Daphne: The blooming of love between two hearts is equal to spring. The aromatic smell and full bloom is going to win your heart and transport it to the warmth of blooming springtime.

8.Rhododendron Plants : Blushing in love is quite common and thus Rhododendron plants are the best way to express your shyness in love for your sweet heart. Celebrate falling in love with this romantic plant.

9.Primrose Plants: These bright spring colors, express love in the most sassy way. Thus, no doubt Primrose Plants are considered as one of the most romantic plants.

10.Lilac Plants: Fragrance, warmth, and lush beauty are expressed if you pick lilac plants. The best way to celebrate your love in an old fashioned are represented with Lilac plants.

Valentine Gift of Spring!

2010-02-09T08:18:00.000-08:00

Roses aren't the only flower for Valentine's giving. Tulips are that refreshing reminder that spring is on the way and a lovely bouquet is the perfect gift from the heart. And just in case your garden tulips are peeking their tender leaves up through the ground before the frost season is over.....cover them with a little mulch.

The romance of red roses!

2010-02-08T09:53:00.000-08:00

Valentine's Day is the day for romance and nothing says it like red roses!!!!

Red roses, as we think of them today, are the traditional symbol for love and romance. The modern red rose we are now familiar with was introduced to Europe from China in the 1800's. However, the meanings associated with them can be traced back many centuries, even to some of the earliest societies. The color red itself evolved from an early primal symbol for life into a metaphor for deep emotion. In Greek and Roman mythology the red rose was closely tied to the goddess of love. Many early cultures used red roses to decorate marriage ceremonies and they were often a part of traditional wedding attire. Through this practice, the red rose became known as a symbol for love and fidelity. As the tradition of exchanging roses and other flowers as gifts of affection came into prevalence, the red rose naturally became the flower of choice for sending the strongest message of love. This is a tradition that has endured to the present day.

Red roses continue to be the most popular way to say "I love you" to someone special. The rich heritage of the red rose has culminated in its modern day image as the lover's rose. They are the definitive symbol for romantic sentiments, representing true love, stronger than thorns. Red roses are a meaningful gift, perfect for expressing feelings for a loved one on Valentine's Day, an anniversary or simply "just because." For the budding relationship, a red rose bouquet can also signal the beginning of romantic intentions. They can send a message of commitment and an invitation to take the next step. Even the simplicity of a single red rose can elicit a powerful response. Whatever the occasion, red roses have an allure that is hard to resist!

Quote of the Day!

2010-02-05T08:03:00.000-08:00

"If I had a single flower for every time I think about you, I could walk forever in my garden." ~Attributed to Claudia Ghandi

There are gardens that we have left behind and some are yet to be designed...but for every seed we've planted, every start we have shared that has rooted in another's garden, there lies a piece of our heart....a gift to Mother Earth. One of my favorite things to do every spring is to visit my friendship garden....a collection of plants that friends have shared over the years. I sit there saying hello to each friend that has given me a piece of their heart.....now rooted in mine.

Beneath the winter is eternal spring....all the seasons are related!

2010-02-04T08:23:00.000-08:00

As surely as the seasons are related…

All of life is surely one with

another.

Not just the recognizable DNA,

but the fiery spirit of survival scattered

throughout the planet we share.

Is it a form of worship to

feel the

Oneness...

the wonder of our

kinship?

The man who compulsively washes

his hands of harbored guilt...

The woman who arrests the

sobs that are imprisoned

within her breast...

we are cousins.

The celebrating dancers,

whose rhythm is our own...

The seamstress and poet whose

seamless rhyme is sewn into

our threaded hearts,

we are

brothers

and

sisters.

Do not feed your hand to guilt

but take instead, the hand of

a friend that travels this linked path.

Let your pain explode from

jailed bosom and roar

as you fling it skyward.

It is to be shared and

understood by your human family.

It is the gift of related commonality...

of Oneness.

Dance and sew,

Sing and

write poems,

paint the colors

of our

relatedness.

For, we are all one

with another.

That is why we came..

To love

one

another.

2010-02-03T09:20:00.000-08:00

Photograph by Mark Lisk ....follow his blog at marklisk.blogspot.com

February skies!

2010-02-03T09:11:00.000-08:00

In each bare branched winter we lay our heads

on a silver pillow of feathered seams….

waiting for the dormant season to change.

We, in winter’s chill, sow cataloged seeds into the

earthy furrows of our buried dreams.

And, in quiet, frosted solitude…….

welcome the frozen snow

as our snugly blanket of comfort…

Resting in faithful trust….

Knowing

that spring

comes.

Always!

Quote of the Day!

2010-02-02T09:58:00.000-08:00

It is necessary to write, if the days are not to slip emptily by. How else, indeed, to clap the net over the butterfly of the moment? For the moment passes, it is forgotten; the mood is gone; life itself is gone. That is where the writer scores over his fellows: he catches the changes of his mind on the hop. ~Vita Sackville-West

It's Groundhog's Day!

2010-02-02T09:54:00.000-08:00

Winter's spring fever!

2010-02-01T09:55:00.000-08:00

It happens every winter.....spring comes in my mind before the reality of winter is over. View one is reality on February first....view two is the total reality of what is to be in a few months. Sigh! Hope the groundhog cooperates tomorrow!

Artful accents in the garden!

2010-01-31T12:57:00.000-08:00

Since today is officially "art day"....don't forget a little art in the garden. It's just a nautral place to share the beauty of creativity! Thanks to Wendy Lycett for this beautiful creation!

View From My Garden!: Thinking ahead to spring!

2010-01-30T09:06:00.000-08:00

View From My Garden!: Thinking ahead to spring!: "my"

Thinking ahead to spring!

2010-01-30T08:30:00.000-08:00

Any good gardener starts planning ahead as soon as the seed catalogs arrive in the mailbox! Even without my usual space for a garden, I'm no different. Gardening magazines find their way into my grocery cart even though it is January. I fantasize about sitting in an Adirondack chair with soft colorful pillows, viewing the crop in my garden or picking a fresh bouquet for the table. The reality is....spring is just around the corner and gardening will be here quickly. Plan ahead! One memorable time last gardening season was visiting my son's country place on the border of Idaho/Oregon while they were floating the Grand Canyon. Three dogs, a fledgling garden and a greenhouse full of seedlings.....heaven. And to make it even better....the driveway lined with peonies bloomed profusely. Between putting on muddy boots to tend the new garden, I painted the peonies. That month, I was totally in my element!

From Fine Gardening......a tutorial on starting from seed!

2010-01-30T08:17:00.000-08:00

10 Seed-Starting Tips

How a practiced propagator gets seedlings off to a healthy start

by Adrianna Vargo

Few gardening pursuits are as rewarding as growing your own plants from seed. As the nursery manager at the Thomas Jefferson Center for Historic Plants at Monticello, I have started thousands of ornamental and vegetable plants from seed. Growing plants from seed is not always an easy task, and over the years I have developed and adopted the following techniques to ensure that seeds get a healthy start.

Videos:
• Seed-Starting Pre-Treat
• Sowing Seeds
• Lighting Seedlings

Further Reading:
• Jump Start Your Seeds
• Starting Wildflowers from Seed
• Build a Growing Stand
• More Seed-Starting Information at VegetableGardener.com

1. Keep records to allow for better planning

An often overlooked aspect of plant propagation is the art of record keeping. Whether you are producing a few plants for your home flower and vegetable gardens or working at a larger-scale nursery, developing a propagation journal will prove indispensable. Here at the Center for Historic Plants, we record when seeds are sown, the germination date and success rate, and when seedlings are ready for transplanting each year. At the end of the year we evaluate the timing of our production schedule, noting what went right and what went wrong. These observations help us make adjustments for next year to ensure that we are growing our plants under optimum conditions. We also keep track of where we purchase seeds, as their quality and reliability may vary by source.

2. Store seed properly to maintain viability

Seeds are a fragile commodity, and if not treated properly, their viability will sharply decline. While some seeds may survive for thousands of years under the proper conditions, others will lose viability quickly, even when properly stored. To maintain dormancy, keep seeds in a cool, dark location with low humidity, like a refrigerator. I recommend labeling them (seed name, source, year) and storing them in a small reclosable bag or empty film canister that is, in turn, kept in a larger plastic container. Once you are ready to sow, you can test the viability of many, but not all, seeds by soaking them in water for a few hours. The seeds that are still living will sink to the bottom, while the dead ones will float on the surface. This test generally works better for larger seeds, but there are no absolutes.

3. Use wide, flat containers to avoid overcrowding

Plastic pots or containers are preferable to clay pots when starting seeds, as they retain moisture more consistently. Wide, shallow containers prevent both overcrowding of seedlings and excessive moisture around fragile, young roots. Plants that resent root disturbance when transplanted are best sown into small, individual containers like cell packs or plug trays. Recycled plastic containers, like empty yogurt or margarine tubs, work well, too, provided you've poked holes in the bottom for drainage. No matter what type of container you use, it must be clean and free of pathogens. To sanitize a container, soak it in a 10 percent bleach solution for 15 minutes and let it air dry.

Plastic pots are best for starting seeds.

Good drainage is essential.

4. Tamp seeds down to make direct contact with the soil

Use a kitchen sieve to spread soilless seed-starting mix evenly over the top of the seeds to the depth of two times the seed diameter. Very small seeds and those that require light to germinate should lie directly on the surface. Whether covered with planting medium or not, each seed must be in firm contact with the moist surface to begin germinating. Use a pestle or even the bottom of a glass to gently tamp down the surface.

After planting, cover seeds with sieved potting mix.

Lightly tamp to ensure firm contact between seeds and mix.

5. Prevent disease by providing air flow and drainage

The fungal infection often referred to as damping-off is usually caused by excessive moisture and poor air circulation. However, there are a few cultural techniques that will help to keep fungal agents at bay. After covering the seeds with planting mix and tamping them down, spread a thin layer of 50 percent milled sphagnum and 50 percent starter chicken grit (finely ground stone) over the surface to keep the soil around the emerging shoots dry and provide an inhospitable environment for pathogens. To promote good air circulation, place a small fan near your seedlings. Keep the fan on low and direct it to blow across the containers at the soil level where air may become trapped and stagnant.

A sprinkling of sphagnum moss and chicken grit helps keep the surface dry, preventing the growth of pathogens.

A fan circulates air.

6. Cover trays with plastic wrap to keep the moisture level constant

Seeds are very sensitive to the extremes of overwatering and underwatering. In addition, heavy-handed watering can disturb newly germinated seedlings. Securing plastic wrap over the surface of a freshly sown seed pot can help to keep the moisture level constant. However, the pot must still be checked daily for moisture and germination. If you find that you need to rehydrate your seed container, place the entire pot in a basin with 2 to 3 inches of warm water and allow the planting medium to wick moisture from the bottom. If just the surface has dried, you can lift the plastic covering and spritz the surface with water from a spray bottle. As soon as the seeds germinate, remove the plastic wrap.

Plastic wrap ensures a constant moisture level.

If more water is needed, let it wick up from the bottom.

7. Keep seeds warm to encourage germination

Most seeds require temperatures of 65° to 75°F to germinate. Placing seed containers near an existing heater or using a space heater with the proper precautions can raise the ambient temperature as needed. In addition, a heating pad designed for plant use placed directly under the seed containers will warm the planting mix and encourage germination. When using any additional heat source, be sure to check for moisture often, since the seed containers may dry out more quickly.

A heat mat speeds germination.

8. Turn seedlings daily to keep stems strong

Most seeds will not germinate without sunlight and will perform best with 12 to 16 hours each day. Indoors, place seed containers in a sunny, south-facing window and give the container a quarter turn each day to prevent the seedlings from overreaching toward the light and developing weak, elongated stems. Also, gently brush the palm of your hand against the tops of the seedlings to encourage strong stem growth.

A sunny windowsill is a good place to put sprouted seedlings.

Lightly brushing the seedlings encourages the growth of strong stems.

9. Feed them well

After true leaves develop, it's time for a little fertilizer.

Proper nutrition at a consistent rate will keep your seedlings growing strong. When the embryo inside a seed is developing, it relies on food stored in the endosperm to fuel its growth. As the shoot emerges from the soil and the true leaves develop, the initial nutrients supplied by the endosperm will be depleted and supplemental fertilization is then required. Most seed-starting mixes contain a small nutrient charge to help make this transition while not burning the developing roots. However, once the true leaves emerge, it is time to begin a half-strength liquid fertilizer regimen on a weekly basis.

10. Acclimate seedlings to direct sunlight

Hardening off in a cold frame acclimates the seedlings to conditions outdoors. Photo/Illustration: Gary Junken

Before seedlings can be planted outdoors, they need to be hardened off, or acclimated to direct sunlight and fluctuating temperatures. It is best to do this over a three-day period by placing them in direct sunlight during the morning only of the first day, then increasing their time outside by a few hours each day until they are vigorous enough to be transplanted.

For more seed-starting tips

Most seeds germinate readily, but others may require a few extra steps to achieve good results. To see how I use the techniques of warm soaking, scarification, and stratification for seed starting, watch my video, Seed-Starting Pre-Treatments.

Photos, except where noted: Jennifer Benner

Here's the scoop!

2010-01-30T08:16:00.000-08:00

Kind of vegetable	Weeks needed to grow transplants*	Seed planting depth	Optimum temperature for germination	Plant-growing temperatures
Kind of vegetable	Weeks needed to grow transplants*	Seed planting depth	Optimum temperature for germination	Day	Night
	(weeks)	(inches)	(^oF)	(^oF)	(^oF)
Cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower	5 to 7	1/4 to 1/2	85	60-70	50-60
Lettuce	4 to 6	1/4 to 1/2	75	60-70	50-60
Onions	8 to 10	1/2	75	60-70	45-55
Tomatoes	5 to 6	1/4 to 1/2	85	70-80	60-65
Peppers	7 to 8	1/4 to 1/2	85	70-80	60-70
Eggplant	7 to 8	1/4 to 1/2	85	70-80	65-70
Cucumber, squash, muskmelon and watermelon	2 to 3	3/4 to 1	85	70-90	60-70

Recycled uses for five things!

2010-01-30T07:55:00.000-08:00

1. Re-use old gutters by turning them into seedling planters. Drill a few drainage holes, fill with compost and vermiculite and plant away. If you hang them....they are space savers.
2. Savvy seed storage...rinse and dry old prescription medicine bottles to store seeds from your garden. Mark them with permanent marker to identify seeds.
3. Milk jugs have many uses...cut into strips for plant markers. Or with the cap on, slice off the bottom and you have a handy potting-soil scoop.
4. Recycle paper bags by using them to compost peels, eggshels and other kitchen scraps. Throw the entire bay onto your compost heap when it is full.
5. Old window-blind slats make great plant markers too. Snip 8 inch lengths, cut one end to a point and write the plant name in permanent black ink....stick the pointed end into the soil and you'll always know what you've planted.

View From My Garden!: Starting an herb garden in a container!

2010-01-29T09:46:00.000-08:00

View From My Garden!: Starting an herb garden in a container!

Starting an herb garden in a container!

2010-01-29T09:24:00.001-08:00

Herbs are essential for the kitchen and you can get a head start by buying young plants or seeds and planting in containers that can be moved to the sunniest spot in the yard or brought in from the cold and placed in a sunny window. Rosemary, chives, parsley, thyme, sage are must haves. When they get too big for the pot....the weather will be warm enough to put them in the garden. In many climates, they'll winter over.

If you don't have a greenhouse!

2010-01-29T08:52:00.000-08:00

If you don't have a greenhouse a cold frame is the next thing to extend the growing season...magic boxes that are inexpensive to create from bales of straw or wooden frames or even old plastic containers with zippers that your bedspread came in. A framed box with old storm windows works well....simply use a southern exposure and prop up the window with a stick to let the heat out. On cold nights, cover the window with an old blanket.

It's best to plant cool season crops very early on....lettuce, radishes, spinach, swiss chard. Build more than one cold frame and stagger your plantings so you will have a continuous harvest. Label your frames with the dates of plantings.

View From My Garden!: Growing sprouts!

2010-01-28T12:53:00.000-08:00

View From My Garden!: Growing sprouts!